Tall landscape edging creates raised borders that define garden beds, block grass, and make string-trimming easier — steel, stone, concrete, brick, and timber are the most durable choices for long-term results.
A sharp raised edge transforms a yard from ordinary to intentional. It stops grass from creeping into beds, keeps mulch where it belongs, and lets you run a string trimmer without damaging flowers or shrubs. The trick is picking the right material for your climate and installing it so it stays put for years — not one season. Here is what actually works and how to get it done.
Best Materials for Tall Landscape Edging
Steel and metal edging is the best overall choice for most homeowners because it combines strength, a low profile, and decades of service without rotting or cracking. Stone and concrete block edging match it for longevity and add a heavier visual presence. Brick offers classic charm at a reasonable price, while log and timber edging brings a natural, rustic look that blends into wooded lots. Plastic edging works as a hidden stabilizer behind other materials but lacks the durability to stand alone as tall raised border.
For raised borders specifically, stone, concrete, and steel deliver the cleanest long-term results. They resist frost heave better than plastic and hold their line through freeze-thaw cycles when installed with a proper gravel base.
How to Install Raised Stone or Concrete Edging
Tall stone or concrete block edging needs a solid foundation to stay level and shift-free. The installation sequence is straightforward but demands attention to base prep.
Start by marking the layout with a garden hose or marking paint — this lets you visualize the shape before digging. Call 811 to check for underground utilities before any excavation. Dig a trench about 4 inches deep and twice as wide as your blocks. Add a 4-inch layer of packed gravel as the base, then leveling sand on top, and compact everything with a hand tamper. Set the first row of stones into the trench, checking each one with a 2-foot or 4-foot level. For a taller raised wall, stack a second row with staggered joints and apply construction adhesive between layers.
For brick edging set higher than the lawn surface, dig a shallow trench 2 to 3 inches deep, add a 2-inch sand layer for frost protection, and lay bricks on their side or upright. Use a string line and rubber mallet to keep them level and aligned. Angled bricks create a saw-toothed look — keep the points on the same line for a clean finish.
Steel and Metal Edging Installation
Metal edging goes in faster than stone and sits lower while still providing a crisp raised barrier. Cut a shallow groove or trench along your marked line — just deep enough to set the edging so about an inch remains above grade. A weed barrier fixes to the back side if you want extra grass-blocking insurance. Tamp soil back against both sides firmly. Steel edging bends to follow curves naturally, making it ideal for flowing bed lines rather than rigid straight sections.
If you are ready to buy, our tall landscape edging product guide covers the top-rated steel, stone, and composite options tested for US yards.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The biggest installation errors all trace back to the same root: skipping base prep. Installing edging on soft, soaked, or frozen ground guarantees settling within one season. Stakes alone cannot hold heavy stone or concrete in shifting soil — a packed gravel base and sand layer are non-negotiable for raised borders.
Another frequent mistake is setting stones directly on top of grass instead of excavating a trench. Grass underneath dies and rots, creating a soft layer that lets the edging sink unevenly. Dig the trench. Leaving edges too narrow also causes trouble — a 30 cm buffer zone between lawn and planting beds gives you room to trim without damaging plants or the edging itself.
For frost-prone climates, the extra inch of sand under brick edging and adhesive between stacked block layers prevent the heaving that pulls flat-laid materials out of line. And always use a string line — eyeballing straightness over 20 feet rarely works.
FAQs
What is the tallest type of landscape edging?
Stacked concrete or stone block walls can reach 12 inches or more, depending on how many rows you add. Steel edging typically tops out around 4 to 6 inches above grade, while brick and timber range from 4 to 8 inches depending on placement and stacking method.
Does tall edging require a concrete footing?
No, but it does need a compacted gravel base at least 4 inches deep for stone or concrete block edging. A concrete footing is only necessary for retaining walls over 24 inches tall that bear significant soil pressure. Standard raised garden borders stay solid with gravel and sand alone.
Can you use landscape fabric with raised edging?
Yes, and it helps. A weed barrier fixed with pegs along the bottom of the trench prevents grass and weeds from growing up under the edging. This is most useful with gravel and stone inlays where bare soil sits visible between the edging material. For steel or brick, the barrier is optional but recommended for long-term maintenance reduction.
References & Sources
- Lowe’s. “Landscape Edging Buying Guide.” Covers material types, installation steps, and trench depth recommendations for stone, brick, and steel edging.