How to Grow Olive Trees in Pots? | Container Care That Works

Growing olive trees in pots succeeds with a container at least 10–14 inches across, fast-draining soil, and a spot that gets full sun for 6–8 hours daily.

A potted olive tree turns any sunny patio or balcony into a Mediterranean retreat. These trees thrive in containers when you get three things right: the pot, the soil, and where you put it. The rest of the care—water, feed, pruning—is simpler than most people expect. Here’s exactly how to keep one healthy and producing for years.

What Size Pot and Soil Does an Olive Tree Need?

Start with a container at least 10–14 inches across for a small tree, or 14–18 inches deep for larger specimens. Drainage holes are non-negotiable—olives rot fast in standing water. The soil must drain sharply: use a loam-based peat-free compost like John Innes No. 3 mixed with horticultural grit or sand, or amend regular potting mix with perlite or coarse sand. Never use moisture-retentive garden soil or heavy compost blends.

If you’re looking for a container that will last through years of growth and weather, our roundup of the best large pots for olive trees covers the sizes and materials that hold up best outdoors.

How Do You Plant and Position It?

Remove the tree from its nursery pot and loosen any circling roots. Place it in the new container so the root crown sits at the soil line—burying the trunk invites rot. Backfill with your soil mix, tamp lightly to remove air pockets, and water thoroughly. Set the pot where it gets at least 6–8 hours of direct sun daily; a south- or west-facing spot is ideal. Olives do not thrive as permanent indoor plants. If you must bring one inside, expect it to need the brightest window you have, and it may still struggle.

In temperate climates, keep the pot outdoors from spring through fall. When temperatures drop near freezing, move it to a cool, bright, frost-free location—an unheated garage or sunroom works well.

Watering, Feeding, and Pruning a Potted Olive

Water thoroughly, then let the top inch or two of soil dry before watering again. Stick a finger into the pot—if it feels damp an inch down, wait. Overwatering is the most common killer of potted olives, and a pot that collects water in its saucer is a sign to ease off. Expect to water more often than you would an in-ground tree, especially during hot, windy weather.

Fertilize sparingly: liquid seaweed feed every two weeks from April through September, or a single application of slow-release fertilizer in spring plus another in midsummer. Olives are light feeders; too much nitrogen pushes leafy growth at the expense of fruit.

Prune in late winter or early spring. Remove dead, diseased, or crossing branches, plus any shoots growing inward toward the center. Keep the canopy open for light and air movement. For fruit production, thin out some of the previous year’s growth to encourage new fruiting wood.

Which Olive Varieties Grow Best in Pots?

Compact, self-fertile varieties are the safest bet. ‘Arbequina’ is the most popular choice—it stays manageable in a container, produces fruit reliably, and adapts well to cooler climates. ‘Koroneiki’ offers high oil content and a tidy habit. ‘Leccino’ is another strong performer with good cold tolerance. Avoid standard orchard-sized varieties unless you have a very large container and serious commitment to pruning.

All three recommended varieties are self-pollinating, so one tree can produce fruit without a second plant nearby. If you want higher yields, a second tree helps, but it is not required.