How to Build a Garden Fence | Keep Critters Out for Good

A properly built garden fence stops deer, rabbits, and groundhogs with a combination of welded wire, buried anti-burrow shields, and correctly set fence posts.

Building a fence that actually keeps animals out depends on getting the foundation right. A fence that looks good but lets a groundhog dig under it in one night is just expensive decoration. Here’s the exact build sequence that stops burrowers and jumpers alike, with material specs and construction details that hold up through freeze-thaw cycles.

Post Layout and Digging

Start by marking the square perimeter. Use the 3-4-5 triangle method to verify corners are square before you dig — a rectangle that’s off by inches won’t square up later. Set stakes at each corner and run a string line between them. Space posts 6 to 8 feet apart; any wider and the horizontal rails will sag. Gate posts need 4 feet of clearance between them.

Dig 8-inch-wide holes with a post-hole digger or auger. Bury one-third of the post length: for a 4-foot fence, use 6-foot posts buried 2 feet deep. For an 8-foot gate post, go 4 feet deep. In cold climates, the hole must extend below the local frost line — typically 30 to 48 inches in northern states — to prevent frost heave. Place 3 to 4 inches of gravel at the bottom of each hole for drainage.

Setting Posts and Rails

Set each 4×4 post in the hole and prop it vertically using scrap 1x2s screwed in at a 45-degree angle. Pour 6 to 8 inches of concrete mix into the hole — one 80-pound bag per post is usually enough. Use a level to check plumb on two adjacent faces, then let it cure overnight. In climates with fast-setting concrete, you may continue after four hours, but overnight is safer.

Once concrete is set, attach 2×4 horizontal rails between posts using 4-inch decking screws. These support the wire mesh and keep the fence rigid. Use two rails for a 4-foot fence (one near the top and one midway) or three for taller fences. Cut rails to fit between posts, measuring each span individually — post spacing is never perfectly uniform.

Wire, Anti-Burrow Shield, and Gate

Unroll PVC-coated welded wire or hardware cloth (1-inch mesh for the upper portion, 2-inch for the lower) and staple it securely to rails and posts using fence staples. Keep the wire taut as you go — sagging mesh lets small animals push through. The PVC coating prevents rust and doubles wire lifespan outdoors.

The anti-burrow shelf is the step most builders skip and the one that stops groundhogs and skunks. Dig a 12-inch-deep trench along the outside of the posts. Push the bottom edge of the wire down into the trench, then bend it outward horizontally (away from the garden) to form an L-shaped shelf extending about 12 inches. Backfill the trench. Burrowers dig down, hit the shelf, and stop — they don’t dig sideways under it. Alternatively, attach wire to the bottom of the lowest 2×4 and bury just the wire edge, but the shelf technique is more reliable.

For the gate, cut two 36-inch sections for top and bottom and two 42.25-inch sections for sides. Use a Kreg jig to drill pocket holes and assemble with 2.5-inch pocket hole screws. Make the frame 1 inch narrower than the opening so it swings freely. Add a 2×4 scrap block to the inside bottom of the gate as an overswing stop — without it, the gate slams past the stop and stresses hinges.

Common Mistakes and Planning

Three errors ruin most DIY garden fences. First, spacing posts wider than 8 feet — rails bow under wire tension and the fence looks wavy after one season. Second, failing to bury the wire or creating a proper shelf — burrowers enter the same week. Third, skipping the overswing stop — hinges bend or pull out within weeks. Check local building codes and property lines before digging; some municipalities require permits for fences over 4 feet. Use exterior-grade screws throughout and paint cut ends of boards before attaching to prevent moisture wicking. Our tested fence product roundup compares materials if you’re shopping for wire or hardware.

PVC-coated welded wire and pressure-treated 4x4s are the standard combo for a 4-foot critter fence. Wood fencing (cedar) runs $25–$55 per foot installed; chain link runs $10–$40 per foot. DIY savings are substantial — cost of treated lumber, concrete, and wire for a 50-foot run is typically $300 to $600, compared to $1,500 to $2,500 for professional installation.