What Kills Spurge Weed? | Three Ways That Work

Spurge is effectively killed by post-emergent herbicides containing dicamba, fluroxypyr, or trifloxysulfuron, with pre-emergents blocking new seeds and hand-pulling handling small outbreaks.

A tiny weed that spreads fast, spurge turns into a mat of leaves and stems within weeks of appearing. The window to act is narrow — seeds mature in about four weeks, and mature plants scatter thousands more seeds across your lawn. The three methods that work depend on when you catch it and where it’s growing.

Post-Emergent Herbicides: Kill Active Spurge Plants

For spurge that’s already visible above the soil, post-emergent herbicides are the most reliable option. They work best when applied in spring or early summer as soil temperatures hit 55–85°F and the weeds are still small.

Look for products with one of these active ingredients: dicamba, fluroxypyr, trifloxysulfuron (sold as Celsius WG), or combinations of 2,4-D, dicamba, and MCPP (like Triad Select or Fahrenheit). Triclopyr mixed with 2,4-D also works well but needs nighttime temperatures above 50°F for best results. Apply using a fan nozzle with a fine spray, coating each leaf evenly. Add a spreader-sticker adjuvant to help the herbicide stick to spurge’s waxy leaves. Keep people and pets off the treated area until the spray is completely dry. Persistent weeds may need a second application.

Before buying a product, check which source works for your situation — you’ll find our tested roundup of the best herbicides for spurge with specific recommendations for warm-season and cool-season lawns.

Pre-Emergent Herbicides: Stop Seeds Before They Sprout

If spurge has been a problem in past seasons, pre-emergent herbicides create a chemical barrier in the soil that kills germinating seeds before they break the surface. Apply prodiamine or dithiopyr in early spring, before soil temperatures reach the 55°F range where spurge seeds begin to germinate. Spread granules in parallel lines, then perpendicular for full coverage, and water in with at least half an inch of water within 14 days of application. A semi-annual reapplication in late summer provides season-long protection.

Hand-Pulling and Natural Methods for Small Infestations

For a handful of plants on an otherwise clean lawn, hand-pulling is the fastest, safest method. Follow each stem back to the base, gather all runners in one handful, and pull from the base to remove as much of the taproot as possible. Wear gloves — spurge produces a sap that irritates skin. Pull before the plants reach seeding maturity, which happens in roughly four weeks.

For spurge growing in driveway cracks, patio joints, or garden beds where you don’t mind killing surrounding plants, natural solutions work well.

Grass-Type Compatibility and Regional Choices

Herbicide safety depends on your grass type. Warm-season lawns (Bermuda, Zoysia, St. Augustine) tolerate Celsius WG, which is labeled safe for all warm-season turf types. Cool-season lawns (Fescue, Ryegrass, Kentucky Bluegrass) do well with Triad Select. Southern lawns have a dedicated option with Image Weed Killer for Southern Lawns. Always confirm your specific grass type is listed on the product label before spraying. Never treat newly seeded areas — wait until the new grass has been mowed three or four times.

Common Mistakes That Let Spurge Come Back

• Waiting too long. Four weeks from emergence to seed set. Remove plants the moment you spot them.
• Disturbing the soil. Tilling or aerating bare soil brings dormant spurge seeds to the surface where they germinate.
• Applying pre-emergents too late. Once seeds have germinated, pre-emergents do nothing to the emerged plant.
• Using vinegar or salt on grass. These non-selective methods kill any plant they touch. Use them only on driveways, patios, or garden beds.
• Spraying on windy days. Drift from non-selective herbicides kills wanted plants. Spot-spray on calm days only.