How to Use Bricks for Garden Edging | A Straightforward Walkthrough

Installing brick garden edging involves marking the border, digging a shallow trench, adding a compacted base, setting the bricks level, and backfilling for stability.

For the full breakdown, see our best Landscaping Bricks For Edging guide.

Brick edging gives garden beds a clean, permanent border that looks better than plastic or stone and holds up for years. The process is straightforward enough for a weekend project, but getting the base right matters. A trench dug too shallow or a base left uncompacted will settle unevenly, and nothing ruins the look faster than a wavy line of bricks a year later. Here is how to do it right the first time.

Marking and Preparing the Border

Start by laying out the line your bricks will follow. For straight runs, stakes and a taut string give the cleanest guide. For curves, a garden hose works well—flexible enough to shape, visible enough to follow. Once the line is set, measure the total length and estimate how many bricks you will need. A reliable rule is to divide the measured length in inches by the brick’s width, then add 10 percent extra for cuts and breakage.

Dig a narrow trench along the marked line, about 3 to 4 inches deep for most standard bricks. The exact depth depends on your brick size and local soil conditions—deeper is safer in frost-prone areas to help prevent heaving. Keep the trench bottom flat and remove any roots or rocks. A flat, clean bottom is what prevents the bricks from settling unevenly later.

Building the Base Layer

Add a compacted base layer inside the trench. Sand, gravel, or paver base all work; a couple of inches of paver base tamped level provides solid drainage and stability. Compact it firmly with a hand tamper or the end of a 2×4 until the surface is flat and even. Skipping this step or skimping on the compaction is the most common mistake in DIY brick edging, and it will show as the bricks shift over time.

The base layer also handles drainage. In wetter climates, slope the base slightly away from the garden bed so water runs off rather than pooling against the bricks.

Setting the Bricks and Securing Them

Place bricks one at a time along the trench, setting them end to end or side by side depending on the look you want. Tap each brick level with a rubber mallet and check alignment frequently with a level or straightedge. For curves, fan the bricks slightly so the gap between them stays even. Tighter curves may require cutting bricks with a diamond-blade circular saw—wear eye and dust protection if you go that route.

Once all bricks are positioned and level, fill the gaps between them. Polymeric sand locks joints firmly and resists weeds and ants, while regular sand or soil lets you adjust later. If using polymeric sand, mist it lightly with water to activate the binding agent. Then backfill both sides of the brick line with soil, tamp it down, and water to settle everything. The bricks should feel solid in the ground, with no rocking or wobble.

If you are choosing materials for the project, take a look at our tested recommendations for the best landscaping bricks for edging—they cover the shapes and sizes that install cleanly and hold up over time.

What to Avoid

The biggest pitfalls are all about the foundation. A trench that is too shallow or narrow for the brick profile will cause shifting after rain. An uncompacted base allows settling that creates low spots and uneven lines. Forgetting to account for drainage—especially a slight slope away from the bed—can lead to water pooling and frost heave in colder climates. And skipping the 10 percent extra when estimating material often means running short mid-project.

FAQs

Do I need to use mortar for brick garden edging?
No, a dry-laid method with a compacted base and sand-filled joints holds bricks firmly and allows for natural drainage and soil movement. Mortar is only necessary if you want a rigid, permanent structure that resists frost heave less well than a flexible dry installation.

How deep should the trench be for brick edging?
Most standard bricks need a trench 3 to 4 inches deep, but you may go deeper—up to 6 inches—in cold climates to set the bricks below the frost line and prevent heaving. The key is that the trench bottom stays flat and clean of roots and rocks.

Can I install brick edging on a slope?
Yes, but you must step the bricks rather than trying to follow the slope in a continuous line. Dig each section level, set the bricks flat, and overlap the next section slightly lower. This creates a terraced effect that holds soil and drains properly.