How to Protect Arborvitae From Deer? | Fencing, Wraps & Repellents

Installing a physical barrier such as plastic deer fencing, welded wire, or netting secured to the ground at 5–6 feet high is the only guaranteed way to protect arborvitae from deer damage.

A single hungry deer can strip an arborvitae of its foliage in one winter night, turning years of growth into a brown skeleton. The most reliable fix is a physical barrier, but several methods offer real protection when a fence isn’t practical. The right approach depends on your winter severity and how much deer pressure your yard gets.

Why Deer Eat Arborvitae And When They Strike Hardest

Deer browse arborvitae for two reasons: it’s one of the few evergreens that stays green and accessible when snow covers lower-growing plants, and its soft, tender foliage is easy to eat. Damage peaks from late fall through early spring, when natural food sources dwindle and deer yard up in sheltered areas. A property that saw no damage in summer can lose every low branch by February.

The Only Guaranteed Method: Fencing And Physical Barriers

If you want zero damage, a physical barrier is the only route. Deer jump well, so any fence or wrap must reach 5–6 feet high and be secured to the ground so they cannot push under it. Plastic deer fencing works for light pressure but often cracks in harsh winter cold; welded wire or steel fencing lasts longer in heavy snow zones. For individual trees, wrapping the trunk and lower branches with black plastic netting (¾-inch mesh) or burlap does the same job on a smaller scale.

Deer Repellent: How To Make It Work

Repellents offer partial protection and are best used as a second layer behind fencing, or alone when deer pressure is light. They must be reapplied throughout winter to stay effective. Products with dried blood, eggs, or predator urine have the best track record.

Choosing A Commercial Repellent

Plantskydd, which uses dried blood mixed with vegetable oil, bonds to plant surfaces and repels deer for about three months per application. The Davey Blog notes it needs 24 hours of dry weather to set — no rain or freezing during that window. Bobbex concentrates spray on after mixing with water and claims season-long protection. PredatorPee’s coyote urine product triggers a genetic fear response and has been sold since 1986. For a full comparison of top products, our tested roundup covers what works and what doesn’t — our guide to the best deer repellents for arborvitae breaks down ingredients, application rates, and winter performance.

DIY Repellent Recipe

A homemade spray can work in a pinch. Mix several beaten eggs with a tablespoon of garlic powder and a gallon of water, apply from a pump sprayer, and reapply after every rain or snowfall. Some gardeners hang bars of strong-scented soap or fabric softener sheets from branches. The Bur Oak Land Trust confirms these pungent odors deter deer temporarily, but the scent fades fast once snow or rain hits the foliage.

The main limitation with any spray repellent is freezing weather. Liquid repellents freeze on the branch and stop releasing odor, and the deer quickly learn the barrier is gone. For this reason, repellents alone are a gamble in Zone 6 and colder climates.

Wrapping Arborvitae With Netting Or Burlap

Netting or burlap wrap is the middle ground between full fencing and spray-only protection. It creates a physical barrier without the cost or visual weight of a fence line.

Deer-Terrent’s arborvitae netting wrap installs in about three minutes using three attached cords with snap hooks, anchoring around the tree from bottom to top. The ¾-inch black mesh blocks deer teeth while letting light and air through, and the company offers free shipping on single-tree kits. For burlap, the rule is different: wrap only the south, southwest, and windward sides, leave the top open, and never tighten the fabric against the foliage. Ask Extension warns that tight burlap traps moisture and causes rot and fungal disease, especially during freeze-thaw cycles.

Planting Deer-Resistant Varieties — With An Honest Warning

Some arborvitae cultivars are less palatable to deer than others. Western arborvitaes like Green Giant, Steeplechase, and Spring Grove are browsed less often than Emerald Green or American arborvitae. The catch: a starving deer eats anything green, resistant label or not. If winter is hard enough and other food is buried, even a Green Giant will get chewed. For areas with chronic deer pressure, the safest play is to plant alternatives that deer genuinely avoid: boxwoods, spruce, holly, or viburnum. Those species survive winters without attracting deer in the first place.

Common Mistakes That Worsen The Problem

Three errors come up repeatedly in homeowner stories. First, wrapping burlap too tightly around the tree — the frozen fabric holds moisture against the bark and causes more damage than the deer would. Second, installing fencing that reaches only 4 feet tall — deer clear that height without effort, and the fence becomes a false sense of security. Third, applying repellent during a snowstorm or rain on the forecast — any liquid repellent applied less than 24 hours before wet weather is wasted money. The Davey Blog also notes that motion-activated sprinklers (often suggested for deer) freeze solid in winter and do nothing when deer need the most.

Protecting Arborvitae Winter Checklist

Follow this sequence before the first heavy snowfall. Inspect every arborvitae for existing damage — any broken branches should be pruned cleanly with sharp shears. For trees you will wrap, install netting or burlap while temperatures are still above freezing, securing the bottom edge with landscape staples or rocks. For trees you will treat with repellent, apply the first coat during a dry window in late fall, then set calendar reminders for reapplication every 6–8 weeks through March. If fencing an entire bed, drive fence posts before the ground freezes. Finally, walk the property line after the first significant snow and push the fencing down tight if snow has lifted it.