How to Lay Garden Bricks: Edging & Path Install Guide

Laying garden bricks for edging or a path requires excavating, compacting a base, setting the bricks, and filling joints with sand.

Whether framing a flower bed or creating a walkway, the process comes down to one thing: a stable, compacted base. Skip that and your bricks will settle and shift within a season. With a shovel, tamper, level, and rubber mallet, you can complete most residential projects in a weekend. This guide covers dry-laid installations (edging and paths), mortar-set bricklaying, and the sizing math you need.

Tools And Materials You’ll Need

Gather the right gear before digging. Here’s the standard kit:

• Shovel and spade for excavating the trench
• Hand tamper or plate compactor for the base
• Rubber mallet for setting bricks without cracking them
• 4-foot level for checking alignment and slope
• Stakes, string, and a tape measure for layout
• Paver base or sand, plus sand or polymeric sand for joints

Our roundup of the best ornamental garden bricks is worth a look before buying, since color and texture vary widely.

How To Lay Brick Edging

Brick edging creates a clean border between a garden bed and lawn. The dry-laid method works well here because it’s adjustable and drains naturally. Mark the bed line with stakes and string for straight runs; use a garden hose to trace curves. Dig a trench several inches wider than the brick length, then fill it with paver base at least 2 to 3 inches deep. Compact the base with a tamper, set the bricks side by side, tapping each level with a rubber mallet, and check alignment every few feet. Pack the outside edge with soil to lock bricks in place, then sweep polymeric sand into joints and water lightly to activate the bond.

Laying A Brick Path: Step By Step

A brick path uses the same core technique but needs deeper excavation for foot traffic. Dig the bed 6 inches deep, leaving room for a proper base. Here’s the sequencing:

1. Set stakes 3 to 4 inches past the path edges, spaced about 16 inches apart, and run string between them.
2. Dig the trench to 6 inches deep, removing roots and leveling the floor.
3. Spread about 1 inch of sand across the base and compact it until flat and firm.
4. Lay bricks one at a time, tapping each with a rubber mallet and checking level frequently.
5. Maintain a slight slope away from the house so water drains instead of pooling.
6. Sweep sand into the joints, then sweep off the excess.

Keep bricks close but not quite touching; the thin sand joint allows pavers to lock together as a unit.

Mortar-Set Bricklaying: When Sand Isn’t Enough

For steps, retaining walls, or structural edging, dry-laid sand won’t cut it. Mortar-set bricklaying bonds each unit with a mortar bed and joints. The standard US mortar joint thickness is 3/8 inch, per ProBuilderCalc. Mix mortar stiff, butter the base of each brick, press into place, and use the level to keep courses plumb. Remove excess mortar as you go — hardened mortar stains brick. Allow the work to cure 24 to 48 hours before walking on it. Mortar-set work is permanent once cured, so check alignment carefully.

Brick Size And How Many You Need

Belden Brick lists a Standard brick at 3-5/8 x 2-1/4 x 8 inches actual size, while common US standard brick is often quoted at 3-5/8 x 2-1/4 x 7-5/8 inches. The difference comes down to nominal rounding versus true dimensions, so measure the actual brick before calculating trench width and order count. To estimate how many bricks you need, divide your run length by the brick width, then add 10% for cuts and breakage, as This Old House recommends.

Common Mistakes That Ruin A Brick Project

Most failed installations trace back to a few errors. Skipping base compaction is the biggest — loose soil settles under bricks and creates uneven surfaces. The Home Depot’s brick edging guide emphasizes tamping for this reason. Other frequent problems include digging a trench too narrow, skipping the drainage slope, and omitting backfill along the outside edge — that backfill stabilizes against lateral pressure. If using polymeric sand, brush it completely off brick faces before wetting, or residue hardens into a white film.