How to Lay Bricks for Landscaping? | A Dry-Laid Method

Laying bricks for landscaping starts with excavating, adding a compacted gravel base, and setting bricks in sand for a stable, dry-laid edge or path.

For the full breakdown, see our best Bricks For Landscaping guide.

Most landscape brick projects—garden borders, edging, and pathways—use the dry-laid method. This approach skips mortar entirely: you bed the bricks in sand and stone dust over a compacted base, which lets water drain naturally and makes future adjustments simple. The steps below work for a straightforward edge or a short path, and they follow the guidance used by the Brick Industry Association and major home-improvement retailers.

What You Need Before You Start

Gather the basics first: bricks rated for ground contact, landscape fabric (optional but helpful for weed control), gravel or crushed stone, sand or stone dust, a rubber mallet, a level, and a straight board for screeding. A rope or string and stakes define your layout line. For a simple border, you can often work with hand tools; a larger patio might justify renting a plate compactor.

Choose your brick style before you dig—it affects the depth you excavate. Standard pavers and landscape bricks range from about 2 to 3 inches thick, and that measurement drives your trench depth. If you are weighing options, our roundup of the best bricks for landscaping compares the common types and their best uses.

How Deep Should You Dig for Landscape Bricks?

Excavate to roughly 6 to 8 inches total for a path bed: about 4 to 6 inches for the base and setting layers, plus the thickness of your brick. For a simple garden edge that sees light foot traffic, a 4-inch-deep trench often suffices, but softer soil calls for more depth, not less.

Mark your area with stakes and string, then dig straight-sided trenches. This Old House’s garden-edge method uses a rope layout and works in short sections rather than digging the entire run at once—this keeps the sides from collapsing and helps you maintain a consistent depth. Check the trench bottom with a level as you go; a smooth, even subgrade prevents most settling problems later.

The Base and Bedding Layers That Keep Bricks Level

The stability of a dry-laid brick surface comes entirely from what is underneath it. Skip the compaction step and you will be resetting wobbly bricks within a season.

• Base layer: Add 2 to 4 inches of compacted gravel or crushed stone. This layer spreads the load and provides drainage. Tamp it down firmly—a hand tamper works for small areas, a plate compactor for larger ones.
• Leveling layer: Spread 1 to 2 inches of coarse sand, fine sand, or stone dust over the compacted base. Screed it flat using a straight board set to the correct height, so the bricks finish at your desired grade.
• Slight slope: Grade the surface so water runs away from your house or any structure. A fall of about 1/4 inch per foot is standard for paved surfaces.

For pedestrian applications, the Brick Industry Association specifies a concrete base with mortar when a permanent, bonded installation is required—that method applies to walls and structural work. For edging and paths, the dry-laid sand bed is the practical choice because it drains and allows individual brick replacement.

Setting Bricks and Filling the Joints

Start at one corner or edge and work outward in short sections, placing each brick tightly against its neighbor. Tap it into the bedding with a rubber mallet and check level frequently—both across the surface and along the run. A wandering row starts with one brick sitting slightly off, so verify alignment every few placements.

Once the bricks are set, sweep jointing sand across the surface to fill the gaps completely. For better stability and weed resistance, you can use polymeric sand, which hardens when wetted. Follow the manufacturer’s directions—most recommend a light misting after sweeping to activate the binding agents. Backfill along the rear edge with soil to lock the outer bricks in place, then tamp the whole surface once more.

Home Depot’s brick paver edge instructions describe the same sequence: lay pavers in sections, level each with sand or a mallet, and wet the jointing sand to set it.

Three mistakes cause most failures: skipping compaction, skimping on base depth in soft soil, and ignoring drainage. The fourth is rushing alignment—a level and a straightedge catch problems while they are still cheap to fix.

If your project involves a retaining wall or a bonded structure above 4 feet, check local permit requirements before building—many municipalities require approval at that height. Simple edging and path work normally needs no permit, but the rule is worth knowing if the scope grows.

Use bricks rated for ground contact. Fired clay and concrete bricks handle soil moisture well; standard building bricks may not survive freeze-thaw cycles in the ground. When you are ready to buy, our tested roundup of the best bricks for landscaping breaks down the top options for edging, paths, and patios.