Landscape border edging is installed by marking your layout, digging a trench at the right depth for your material, setting and anchoring the edging, then backfilling and compacting the soil to lock it in place.
That sequence works for plastic, metal, stone, or flexible strip edging — but the trick is knowing which depth and anchoring pattern fits your specific material. A one-size-fits-all approach is usually where the wobbling, mower-scraping, or winter-heaving begins. Here is the install process that avoids those problems, followed by the material-specific numbers that matter.
Mark Your Border Before You Dig
Skip the freehand guess. Lay out a garden hose or string line to trace your bed edge or path curve, then mark the line with spray paint, small pebbles, or landscape marking flags. This step lets you stand back and check the shape before any ground work. On straight runs, pull the string taut; on curves, the hose bends naturally without kinking. Measure the total run length and compare it against your edging footage before you cut anything — shortages mid-project are the most preventable mistake in this entire job.
Digging the Trench — Depth Varies By Material
The biggest consistency across professional installs is “dig deep enough to bury the edging, but keep the top low enough that your mower can pass over it.” The chart below shows the depths and anchors that fit common edging types. The grass-side height rule is the same for all of them: the edging’s top edge should sit at or slightly below lawn grade so a mower deck does not catch it.
| Edging Material | Trench Depth | Stake Spacing |
|---|---|---|
| Plastic strips | Deep enough that only the top V-shape lip is visible | Every 7 inches; extra stakes 3 inches from each side of a seam |
| Metal / composite | Edging height plus 1–2 inches for base material | 24–36 inches on straight runs; closer on curves |
| Stone / brick pavers | 2–3 inches (plus a 1-inch sand bed underneath) | N/A — set in sand or mortar, no stakes needed |
| General flexible strip | 3–4 inches deep, 4–6 inches wide | Per product instructions, typically 12–18 inches |
Cut the turf along your marked line with a half-moon edger or flat spade. For plastic and metal edging, cut the trench walls straight and the bottom flat — a shovel with a squared-off blade works well. Remove loose soil and set it aside for backfill later. If the ground is hard, lightly water the area the day before to soften it.
If you’re shopping for edging materials and want a side-by-side comparison of the top-rated options, our detailed roundup of the best landscape edging borders covers the plastic, metal, and stone picks that installers actually trust.
Setting and Anchoring the Edging
Place the edging into the trench and check that the top sits at the intended finished height — remember, a mower should clear it. For flexible plastic strips, orient the V-shaped lip toward the flowerbed side. Butt sections together tightly and make sure connectors are distributed evenly into both pieces rather than shoved into one side. On curved runs, curve the edging gradually and use closer stake spacing to prevent kinks. Secure the edging with stakes or spikes, driving each one at a slight angle from the lower outside face through to the other side, using a rubber mallet or hammer. For longer runs of metal edging, leave a tiny gap between sections to accommodate thermal expansion on hot days.
After anchoring, backfill the trench with the soil you set aside — or gravel, if your design calls for drainage. Tamp it firmly with a hand tamper or the butt of a shovel handle. Re-check alignment as you go: visible waviness after backfill is usually a sign you did not compact enough.
Common Mistakes That Ruin the Job
Three pitfalls account for nearly every failed install. First, digging too shallow — the edging works itself upward over a season or two. Second, setting the top edge too high so the mower deck smashes into it — aim for flush with the lawn. Third, failing to compact the base or backfill, which lets the edging shift and create uneven lines. If you take your time on these three, the edging behaves for years.
FAQs
Can I install landscape edging without removing the grass first?
Yes, if you cut a clean trench line through the turf using a half-moon edger and remove the strip of sod. Leaving thick clumps of grass in the trench makes the edging sit unevenly and gives weeds a bridge across the border.
How deep should landscape edging be buried for dogs?
Dogs digging under edging is mainly a problem with shallow installations. Bury the edging at least 4-6 inches deep for your material type, and add a 2-inch base of compacted gravel or sand below it. This usually stops casual digging, though determined diggers may need a buried metal barrier.
Is flexible plastic edging worth it compared to metal?
— and handles curved beds naturally. and is harder to form into tight curves. Your choice depends on whether budget or longevity is the priority.
If you are still weighing which material fits your project, the landscape edging border guide breaks down the pros and cons of each type with real installer feedback.
References & Sources
- Home Depot. “How to Install Plastic Edging.” Covers plastic edging installation with angled stake driving and connector alignment.
- Bob Vila. “How to Install Landscape Edging.” General installation steps with material-specific depth and spacing advice.
- Primrose. “How to Install Lawn Edging.” Details height considerations, mower clearance, and flexible strip installation.
