Installing garden netting starts with measuring and clearing your bed, driving support posts or hoops, draping the net with a few feet of overlap, and securing every edge with pins or ties so nothing crawls or blows under.
One morning you walk out to find your tomatoes shredded or your kale peppered with tiny holes. That’s the moment garden netting stops being a project and starts being a necessity. Getting it right is simple—it’s the gaps and loose edges that fail. Here’s the exact sequence that keeps rabbits out, birds off, and your harvest intact.
What You Need Before You Start
Grab a measuring tape, scissors or a utility knife, a mallet for stakes, and this short list of supplies. Your netting type depends on what you’re blocking: insect mesh with 0.6mm openings stops aphids and whiteflies, while bird netting with roughly 3/4‑inch openings works for fruiting crops. Hardware cloth with 1/2‑inch gaps is best for rabbits at the bed perimeter.
For supports, choose stakes (hardwood or metal for small areas), metal hoops, or PVC pipes you bend over the bed. You’ll also need fasteners—cable ties, twine, bulldog clips, or half‑screwed screws used as hooks. U‑shaped garden pins secure the bottom edges into the soil. A pack of pins runs about $10 to $20; bird netting rolls cost roughly $15 to $30.
Step 1: Assess Your Pest Problem and Clear the Bed
Before you set anything, know what you’re up against. Check leaf undersides for aphids at dusk and look for rabbit droppings near the bed. Identify the specific threats so you choose the right netting. Then pull weeds and cut back any overgrowth that would push against the net from underneath or create entry tunnels for pests.
Step 2: Set Up Your Support Structure
Drive stakes or poles firmly into the ground at the corners and along the perimeter. For a low tunnel, bend metal or PVC hoops over the bed and secure each end by sliding them over rebar pins driven into the soil or by tying them down. Hoops made from 260cm PVC pipe cost about $2 to $5 per piece for a DIY setup.
Step 3: Measure, Cut, and Drape the Netting
Measure the full area of your bed, then add 2 to 3 feet of overlap on every side. Cut the netting to size—scissors or a sharp utility knife works fine. Drape it over the supports so it covers the entire bed, leaving some slack for plants to grow taller. The net should never rest directly on delicate foliage; touching leaves can damage them and, in frost conditions, transfer cold damage.
Step 4: Secure Every Edge Tight
Start fastening at the bottom. Pin the netting edges to the soil with U‑shaped garden pins every 12 to 18 inches. Alternatively, bury the edges under a few inches of soil or weigh them down with rocks. Pull the netting taut as you go, but don’t stretch it so tight that it rips or pulls up the pins. Secure the netting to the hoops or stakes with cable ties, twine, or clips at regular intervals. If you need to get inside the bed regularly, create an entry flap using Velcro strips, bulldog clips, or a zippered seam.
The Netting Setup Table: Which Method Fits Your Garden
| Support Method | Best For | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Stakes with bird netting | Small beds, low‑growing crops | Netting $15–$30, stakes $5–$15 |
| PVC hoops + insect mesh | Large beds, leafy greens, tomatoes | Pipes $2–$5 each, insect mesh $20–$40 |
| Metal hoops + hardware cloth | Rabbit protection, permanent raised beds | Hardware cloth $15–$25 per roll, hoops $10–$20 |
| Wood frame + wildlife‑safe netting | Berry bushes, fruit trees, animal safety | Netting $20–$40 per roll, lumber $10–$20 |
| Metal saddles + PVC tunnel | Low tunnels for extended season | Saddles $1–$3 each, PVC pipes $2–$5 each |
| Rebar pins + poly‑pipe hoops | Quick setup, temporary protection | Rebar $5–$10, poly‑pipe $3–$8 per length |
| Free‑standing bird net over shrubs | Tall plants, blueberries, bamboo stakes | Netting $15–$30, bamboo stakes $5–$10 |
If you’re dealing with deer, especially in a suburban yard, you’ll want something heavier than bird netting. See our tested roundup on deer netting for garden for the strongest options that hold up to larger animals.
Step 5: Final Checks and Weekly Maintenance
Walk the entire perimeter. Look for any gap where a finger could fit underneath—that’s an entrance for pests. Push the pins tighter or add a rock on top. Check that no netting is pulled so tight that it presses against leaves. Once a week, remove any leaves, twigs, or debris that have landed on top; they add weight and can tear the net over time. After the growing season, wash the netting with mild soap, let it dry completely, and store it in a cool, dry place to prevent mold.
What Goes Wrong Most Often
The biggest mistake is pulling the netting too tight. Tight netting rips as plants grow and blocks access for weeding and harvesting. Another common failure is leaving loose edges that animals can lift. Secure borders thoroughly with pins or buried edges. Pollination is another catch—if you’re growing insect‑pollinated crops like squash or cucumbers, remove the netting during flowering so bees can get in. Finally, don’t ignore debris. A leaf‑covered net sags and can trap small animals underneath.
Common Netting Problems and How to Fix Them
| Problem | Why It Happens | The Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Pests still getting in | Gap at the bottom edge | Pin edges tighter or bury them under soil |
| Netting sagging or torn | Debris piled on top or wind | Remove debris weekly; add extra clips |
| Plants stunted or damaged | Netting touching foliage | Add more slack or raise supports |
| No fruit on flowers | Netting blocked pollinators | Remove net during flowering hours |
| Animals caught in net | Over‑large holes or loose netting | Switch to 5mm or smaller wildlife‑safe net |
Get It Up Once and Forget It
The whole setup—measure, support, drape, pin—takes one weekend afternoon. If you choose the right netting for your specific pest, leave slack for growth, and secure the edges without gaps, that net will sit quietly all season doing its job. Revisit it weekly for a two‑minute walk‑around, and you’ll harvest instead of grumble.
FAQs
Can I use bird netting to stop rabbits?
Bird netting has openings around 3/4 inch, which rabbits can squeeze through or tear. For rabbits, use hardware cloth with 1/2‑inch openings at the bed perimeter, or layer bird netting over a hardware‑cloth base.
Does garden netting block too much sun?
Standard insect mesh and bird netting block minimal sunlight—roughly 5 to 10 percent—which most vegetables tolerate fine. Shade cloth is a different product intended for heat reduction. Stick with open‑weave netting for normal pest protection.
How do I get into the bed to harvest without lifting the whole net?
Install a Velcro flap, use bulldog clips on one side as a re‑openable seam, or create a zippered entrance. These let you reach in without disturbing the rest of the setup.
When should I take the netting off?
Remove netting at the end of the growing season to prevent animals from getting trapped and to let the material dry and store clean. For pollinator‑dependent crops, take it off during flowering hours each day.
Will netting protect against frost?
Netting alone provides very little frost protection—it’s meant to keep pests out, not retain heat. For frost, use row cover fabric or frost blankets. Never let any cover touch the foliage directly.
References & Sources
- Garden Netting UK. “A Guide to Installing Garden Netting.” Detailed step‑by‑step covering stakes, pins, and final checks.
- LinkedIn Pulse. “Garden Netting Installation: A Step‑by‑Step Guide.” Covers hoops, U‑shaped pins, and weekly maintenance routines.
- Connie & Luna. “How to Build an Easy DIY Netting Structure.” Three DIY support methods with PVC and saddles.
- Anleolife. “Trellis and Netting Setup Guide.” Pest‑specific netting types and layered protection approach.
- YouTube – How to put mesh/net over raised bed. Video demonstration. Visual guide for draping and securing netting on raised beds.