To install a deer fence, you clear the perimeter, set posts at the right intervals, attach high-tensile or poly netting, tension the top and bottom cables, and anchor the bottom mesh to the ground. The key is proper depth and hardware—most DIY failures come from loose bottoms and sagging spans.
Deer find weak spots fast—a loose bottom edge, sagging line between posts, or a corner that buckles under tension. Getting it right on the first try means picking the right materials for your terrain and following a sequence that holds up for years.
The Critical Choices Before You Start
Three decisions determine whether your fence works: post type, spacing, and height. For standard deer exclusion, you need at least 8 feet of woven wire or 7–8 feet of poly netting. Poly netting runs about $0.50 to $1.20 per foot (8-foot rolls); woven wire runs $1.50 to $3.00 per foot.
Post spacing depends on fence material: Poly netting: posts at 15–20 foot intervals (up to 100 feet of stretch on flat terrain). Welded wire or chicken wire: posts at 6–8 foot intervals.
T-posts cost around $8 to $15 each and drive quickly with a $40 to $80 post driver. Ground sleeves run $10 to $20 per sleeve and let you swap or remove posts later. Pressure-treated 4×4 wood posts are the most permanent option, needing concrete and gravel. The total DIY cost per linear foot for an 8-foot fence typically runs $2 to $5 for materials alone.
Step-by-Step Installation
1. Prep and Mark the Perimeter
Clear all shrubs, stumps, and debris from the fence line. Mark every post location with red spray paint at your chosen spacing. Start with corners—they take the most tension and need strong bracing.
2. Set the Posts
For ground sleeves: Drive the sleeve into the soil with a sledgehammer or driver, slide the post in, and lock it with set screws. For T-posts: Use a post driver to pound them straight into the ground. For wood posts: Dig holes, add 6 inches of gravel for drainage, set the post, and pour concrete saturated with water. Shape the concrete cap to angle away from the post. Remove air pockets by shoving a stick into the wet concrete.
3. String the Top and Bottom Cables
Run monofilament line or metal cable from corner to corner using crimping sleeves and tensioners. The top cable carries most of the fence’s weight; if ready to buy, our deer fence with gate recommendations include pre-gated sections that simplify this step.
4. Unroll and Attach the Fence
Start at a corner post. Unroll the fence on the outside of the enclosure—leave 3–4 mesh blocks past the first post. Fasten the top edge to the top cable using hog rings every foot or at every post. Roll the fence down the line, keeping tension even. Cut only at a post, never mid-stretch. Overlap new rolls by at least 3 mesh sections and connect them with hog rings.
5. Secure the Bottom Edge
Pull the bottom metal cable upward by 2–3 mesh grids to stretch the fence tight to the ground. Install 12-inch kinked stakes every 5 feet through the cable and mesh. Use kinked stakes for standard soil and smooth-shaft stakes for sandy or loose ground. If deer can push their nose under the bottom, the whole fence is useless.
6. Build a Gate
For a simple gate, cut the fence between two T-posts spaced about 2 feet apart. Loosely zip-tie one open end to its post so it swings; tie the other end with rope to close it. A pre-built gate section is more convenient for permanent access.
Common Mistakes That Ruin a Deer Fence
| Mistake | What Happens |
|---|---|
| Loose bottom mesh | Deer push under the fence—the most common single failure |
| T-posts spaced more than 10 feet apart for netting | The fence sags between posts and deer lean through or under |
| No corner bracing | Tension pulls the corner post over; the whole fence relaxes |
| Cutting the fence mid-stretch | Creates a weak point where the material splits under tension |
| Vegetation touching electric fencing | Drains the charge; the fence no longer delivers a shock |
FAQs
How deep should corner fence posts be?
Corner posts need at least 6 feet in the ground to hold the tension from long spans. Line posts only need about 4 feet. Shallow corners are the weak link that pulls the whole fence out of alignment.
Can I install a deer fence myself in a weekend?
A single person can install a poly deer fence over a weekend for a small garden. T-posts and sleeves speed up the job by skipping concrete curing. A full perimeter fence with wood posts and concrete takes longer—plan for a second weekend if the run is long.
Does deer fence need to be 8 feet tall?
For woven wire, yes—8 feet is standard. For poly netting, 7 to 8 feet works because the netting is more visible and deer are less likely to jump something they can see clearly. Two-wire “psychological” fences at 5 and 7 feet work only as temporary or low-pressure solutions.
References & Sources
- Minnesota Department of Natural Resources. “Woven Wire Fence Handbook for Deer Exclusion.” Technical guide for woven wire fence construction and post spacing.
- Benner Deer Fence. “Poly Deer Fencing Installation Guide.” Step-by-step installation instructions for poly netting fences.