How to Install Brick Edging for Landscaping | Trench, Set, Lock

Installing brick edging for landscaping requires excavating a 3–6 inch trench, compacting a paver base, setting bricks flush with the ground, and locking them in place with polymeric sand.

Brick edging keeps mulch in garden beds, stops grass from creeping in, and adds a finished look that plastic strips never match. The best part: you can do a straight run in an afternoon with hand tools. The trick is a firm base and the right fill material—skip the compaction and your bricks will be shifting by next spring.

The Right Depth For Your Trench

The depth you dig controls how stable the edging stays. A standard trench runs 3–4 inches deep for bricks laid flat. Go to 6 inches deep when you add a 2–3 inch paver base topped with an inch of stone dust, which gives the most durable result for high-traffic areas.

The trench itself should be several inches wider than the brick length. That extra width lets you adjust alignment as you set each brick without scraping the walls. Vodaland USA recommends a flat-bottom trench with the sides cut straight up and down — no sloping edges that let the base layer creep sideways.

Materials That Keep Bricks From Moving

Standard sand washes out over time. Polymeric sand is the upgrade that matters: it hardens when activated with water, locking each brick in place and blocking weed growth in the gaps. Home Depot’s installation guide and This Old House both specify polymeric sand for permanent results.

The base layer formula from JJ Materials:

• 2–3 inches of compacted paver base to spread the load
• 1 inch of stone dust mixed with Portland cement (6:1 ratio) on top
• Tamp each layer before setting the first brick

Clay pavers work best for tidy borders because they hold color and resist cracking in freeze-thaw cycles.

Step-By-Step Installation

1. Mark and Measure

Run Mason’s line between garden stakes for straight edges. For corners, set the line at a 90-degree angle. Spray paint works for curved beds. Calculate brick count by dividing the garden length in inches by the brick length, then add 10 percent for cuts and curves. If you want to compare specific brick types and dimensions before buying, our roundup of the best brick edging products covers the top choices for US gardens.

2. Excavate

Cut the trench walls straight with a spade or lawn edger. Dig a flat-bottom trench at your planned depth, removing all sod and weed roots. A hand tamper or the flat end of a shovel compacts the floor.

3. Prepare and Compact the Base

Spread the paver base evenly across the trench bottom. Tamp firmly until the surface is level and solid — this step is the one beginners skip and regret. Add the stone dust and cement mix on top, then level with a board or trowel.

4. Set the Bricks

Start at a corner. Place the first brick and tap it with a rubber mallet until the top sits flush with the Mason’s line. Check level in both directions. Work down the line, aligning each brick against the previous one and tapping firmly. For curves, use smaller cut bricks or keystones to avoid jagged gaps.

5. Fill Gaps and Activate

Brush polymeric sand into all cracks. Tamp again to settle the sand. the joints are full to the top with no voids. Mist the edging with a gentle spray — never a high-pressure hose, which dislodges the sand. The sand hardens within a few hours.

6. Backfill and Finish

Return the original soil or mulch to both sides of the trench. Backfilling stabilizes the bricks and blends the edging into the lawn.

Common Mistakes That Lead To Shifting Bricks

Most edging failures come from three errors. Digging only 3 inches deep when your soil has a deep clay layer leaves bricks sitting on soft ground — quack grass pushes through within a season. Skipping the tamping step lets the paver base settle unevenly under rain and foot traffic. And over-spraying weed inhibitor onto the lawn next to the bed kills the grass you want to keep.

A slight slope away from the garden in both directions helps water drain instead of pooling against the bricks.

Tools You Need

You probably already own most of these. The full Home Depot list includes a rubber mallet, garden stakes, Mason’s line, spade or edger, hand tamper, level, garden trowel, and masonry pencil. No power tools required — this is a weekend project that runs on elbow grease.

Should You Add Gravel Under The Bricks?

Heavy rain areas benefit from a 2–3 inch gravel base beneath the paver layer. Gravel creates a drainage path that stops water from pooling under the bricks and pushing them up during freeze cycles. On sandy or well-draining soil, gravel is optional.

Why Polymeric Sand Beats Regular Sand

Standard joint sand washes out in the first hard rain and leaves gaps for weeds. Polymeric sand contains binders that activate with water, forming a firm seal between bricks. This Old House’s project guide shows it holding tight through several seasons. The only extra step is the gentle water spray — a garden hose on mist setting works perfectly.

Final Installation Checklist

One weekend with these steps and your garden beds will look cleaner, stay contained, and need far less maintenance than any plastic edging alternative. This Old House’s full brick edging guide includes additional tips for curved beds and corner transitions.