How to Get Rid of Grubs Naturally? | Lawn-Safe Fixes

Natural grub control works best when you confirm the infestation first, then target young grubs with beneficial nematodes while fixing lawn care habits like mowing higher and watering less often.

A few C-shaped white grubs in the soil is normal, but when they hit eight or more per square foot, the damage shows up as brown patches that peel back like carpet. The good news is you don’t need harsh chemicals to get ahead of them. Natural methods take a little timing and patience, but they keep your lawn safe for kids, pets, and pollinators while addressing the root cause of the problem.

Confirm You Actually Have a Grub Problem

Before spending any time or money on treatment, check whether the infestation is worth fighting. Pull back a square foot of turf near the edge of a damaged patch and count the C-shaped, white-bodied grubs you find below the roots. Fewer than that, and the lawn can often recover on its own with better care.

Sample in late summer or early fall when grubs are young and feeding near the surface—mid-August to late September for upstate New York, and early August to mid-September for southeastern New York, adjusting for your region’s climate. Pulling a sample at the wrong time can make you miss them entirely.

The Most Effective Natural Control: Beneficial Nematodes

Beneficial nematodes are microscopic roundworms that seek out and kill grubs naturally. They are safe for people, pets, plants, and earthworms, and they are the single most reliable biological option available to homeowners. Mix the nematodes according to the package instructions, apply with a hose-end sprayer, then water them in immediately with at least half an inch of irrigation so they soak into the soil where grubs are active.

Timing matters: treat when grubs are present and feeding, and apply in the late afternoon to protect the nematodes from UV light. Water them in right away. One application per season is usually enough if your timing is right, but heavy infestations may need a follow-up the next year.

If you want to see how specific products compare on cost, coverage, and ease of use, our roundup of the top natural grub controls covers the options worth your money.

Support Your Lawn So Grubs Have Less to Eat

Grubs are attracted to moist, thatchy lawns with shallow roots. The simplest long-term fix is to make your turf less hospitable. Raise your mower deck to 3.5–4 inches—taller grass develops deeper roots that tolerate feeding damage better and makes the lawn less attractive to egg-laying beetles. Core aeration once a year reduces compaction and improves root depth.

Water deep and infrequent rather than giving the lawn a light sprinkle every evening. Frequent shallow watering keeps the top few inches of soil moist, which is exactly what grubs and the beetles that lay them prefer. Let the soil dry out between waterings. If your soil pH falls below 6.0 or rises above 7.0, amend it to keep turf vigorous and better able to recover from root damage.

For small, localized infestations, you can physically remove grubs by lifting the turf, shaking out the grubs into a bucket of soapy water, then pressing the turf back down and watering it in. This works best on patches smaller than a few square feet.

Milky Spore: A Long-Term Option for Japanese Beetles Only

Milky spore is a biological control that targets only Japanese beetle grubs. It is caused by Bacillus popilliae and can take three or more years to build up to effective levels in the soil, but once established, it may remain active for a decade or longer.

If Japanese beetles are your primary pest, milky spore is worth starting as a preventive measure alongside immediate nematode treatment for current grubs. If your grubs come from other scarab species like June beetles or chafers, milky spore will not help.