How to Get Rid of Ground Bees | Relocate, Don’t Spray

Getting rid of ground bees usually means making their dry, bare-soil nesting spots unappealing with water, mulch, or grass seed — lethal sprays are rarely needed for these solitary, non-aggressive pollinators.

For the full breakdown, see our best Ground Bee Killer guide.

A half-dozen small holes in that sunny, dusty patch of lawn doesn’t mean a dangerous infestation. It likely means a solitary ground bee — a miner bee, a sweat bee — that chose your yard for its dry, well-drained soil. These are excellent pollinators that rarely sting and vanish in a few weeks, so the smart approach is gentle eviction, not extermination. If you have a persistent colony or an allergy concern, that changes the plan entirely. Here are the four steps that work, from simple to serious.

Identify The Nest (And The Species)

Ground bee nests look like small pencil-hole openings in bare or sparse soil, each with a tiny mound of loose dirt beside it. They appear in dry, sunny spots — along paths, in patchy grass, or under shrubs. Unlike yellowjacket or hornet nests, a solitary ground bee colony will have many separate holes, each occupied by a single bee that rarely defends the area beyond buzzing at you. If you see a single large entrance with heavy traffic, you are looking at a social wasp or hornet nest, and that is a job for a professional. Most of what we call “ground bees” in the U.S. are solitary Andrena or Colletes species that are docile and beneficial.

Change The Site, Not The Bees

The most effective removal method is making the area unlivable. Ground bees return to the same spot because it meets their needs: dry, warm, exposed soil. Fix that, and they will move on in a week or two.

• Water it thoroughly. Soak the nesting area with a hose or sprinkler for 15–20 minutes every evening for three or four days. Saturated soil feels wrong to a bee that chose dry ground, and most will abandon the burrow.
• Cover bare soil. Once the bees have left, fill the holes with topsoil, then overseed with grass or lay down a 2-inch layer of mulch. Thick vegetation or heavy mulch makes the site useless for nesting.
• Block existing holes. Place a brick, stone, or paver over any hole you spot. The bee returning with pollen will find the entrance blocked and may not dig a new one nearby. This is a mild deterrent, not a guarantee, but it works well on small, low-traffic colonies.
• Add plants or ground cover. A thick stand of clover, creeping thyme, or any dense low-growing plant eliminates the bare-dirt habitat they need. Even landscape fabric topped with mulch does the job.

When To Use A Lethal Method (And How)

If the non-lethal approaches fail or you need the area usable immediately — perhaps kids or pets use the space — the safest fast option is a commercial ground bee killer. Orkin and other pest-control experts note that a targeted dust or spray can eliminate the colony in one treatment.

The research sources mention two home-brew treatments: a 50/50 white vinegar and water spray, and hot soapy water poured directly into the hole. Neither is standardized or EPA-approved for this use. If you try either, apply at dusk when the bees are inside and less active, and wear long sleeves and pants in case the bees defend their entrance.

Call A Professional If…

You should contact a pest-control service, not DIY, when any of these apply: someone in the household has a bee-sting allergy; the nest area is larger than a dinner plate or has dozens of holes; you cannot tell whether the insect is a solitary ground bee or a social wasp; or the colony returns year after year despite your site changes. Professionals have access to extended-duration dusts and targeted foams that a homeowner cannot buy, and they can identify the species for you. For a one-time, persistent infestation, the cost of a pro visit is worth the certainty and safety.