How to Get Rid of Dollar Weed? | Stop It for Good

Getting rid of dollar weed requires killing the existing plants and then fixing the damp, compacted soil that lets it thrive.

A lawn scattered with shiny, coin-shaped leaves is a sign of two problems: the weed itself and the overly wet soil it loves. Dollar weed is a perennial that spreads through seeds, creeping rhizomes, and underground tubers, so simply pulling the top off guarantees it will return. The long-term fix involves removing the current crop while making conditions unfavorable for regrowth by improving drainage and growing a thicker, taller lawn. The table below breaks down your options by method, effectiveness, and the work involved.

Identify the Enemy: Is It Dollar Weed?

Dollar weed is a low-growing perennial with round, fleshy leaves about the size of a silver dollar. It thrives in moist, poorly drained soil and is common in lawns with heavy clay or overwatering issues. The weed spreads aggressively via seeds and underground stems called rhizomes, which means a surface-level fix won’t cut it.

The Two-Step Approach

: Kill the Weed, Fix the Wet

Effective control always combines immediate removal with a long-term strategy. Treating the weed without addressing the moisture is like patching a leaky pipe — the problem will return.

Step 1: Remove Existing Dollar Weed

Your first decision is whether to pull or spray. Hand-pulling works for small patches but is risky. According to Scotts Miracle-Gro, you must pull gently when the soil is moist to extract the entire root and rhizome system. If you break the root, the plant will regrow from the piece left behind, making the problem worse. For large patches, a selective herbicide is the only practical option.

Our roundup of the top dollar weed killers compares the best brands for different grass types and conditions, helping you choose between concentrated formulas and ready-to-spray solutions without guessing.

Step 2: Correct What Attracts It

Dollar weed thrives on moisture. Overwatering creates the perfect environment. Reduce your irrigation schedule: water deeply and infrequently, aiming for about 1 inch of water per week (including rainfall). Level low spots where water collects and aerate compacted soil to improve drainage. Raising your mowing height to 3–4 inches helps shade the soil, keeping it cooler and drier, which naturally discourages dollar weed from germinating.

Herbicide Options by Grass Type

Using the wrong herbicide can kill your lawn faster than the weed. Always check the label. Hi-Yield Atrazine is safe for St. Augustine and centipede grass, while SpeedZone Broadleaf Herbicide — containing 2,4-D and Dicamba — is better suited for zoysia and bermuda grass. Apply post-emergent herbicides when soil temperatures are between 70–85°F for maximum absorption. Expect to reapply every 4–6 weeks or as needed until the weed is gone.

Natural and DIY Methods

For smaller infestations or those avoiding chemicals, several home remedies exist. A 10% vinegar solution — not the standard 5% grocery store variety — can be used directly on the leaves on a warm, sunny day. A homemade mix of 1 gallon of 10% vinegar, 1 ounce of orange oil, 1 tablespoon of molasses, and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap boosts its sticking power. A slower but interesting method comes from experienced gardeners on the Garden.org forums: applying 1 pound of table sugar per 250–300 square feet, watering well, and maintaining regular mowing.

For an extreme infestation, the black plastic method is a reset button. Cover the area with heavy black plastic for 2 months to cook the soil, dig up the top 4–6 inches and haul it away, then re-cover for another 2 months. This kills everything, including dormant seeds and deep rhizomes.

Common Mistakes That Make It Worse

The biggest mistake is incomplete hand-pulling. Breaking the rhizome underground means a new plant will sprout from every segment, effectively multiplying your problem. Another frequent error is assuming one herbicide application is enough; dollar weed’s persistent root system requires repeat treatments. Finally, don’t neglect the underlying conditions — chemicals will keep failing if your lawn stays wet. Let the soil dry out between waterings, and consider a soil test to check for compaction or pH imbalances.