How to Clean Garden Shears | Sharper Cuts, Longer Life

Garden shears need regular cleaning to prevent rust, sap buildup, and plant disease spread, and the whole process—wash, dry, disinfect when needed, oil—takes less than ten minutes.

Dirty shears don’t just cut poorly—they transfer diseases from one plant to the next and rust from the moment you put them away wet. The fix is simpler than most people think: clean off the debris, scrub away the sap, sanitize only when disease is a concern, and end with a coat of oil. Here’s the order that works.

Basic Cleaning: What You Need and What to Do

For routine maintenance after each use, stick to the basics. Rinse the blades under warm water to remove loose dirt and plant residue, then scrub with a stiff brush or steel wool to knock off dried sap. Wash everything in warm, soapy water, rinse clean, and dry thoroughly with a cloth. Moisture left on the blades is the fastest route to rust, so drying is not optional.

Sanitizing Shears: When and How

Disinfecting is necessary only when you’ve cut diseased plant material—not after every pruning session. Reserve sanitizers for disease control, and use them with care because they can corrode metal if not rinsed and dried promptly. The best options are 70% or higher isopropyl alcohol, a bleach solution, or hydrogen peroxide.

Bleach Solution Method

According to Iowa State University Extension, mix 9 parts water with 1 part bleach, adding bleach to water (never the reverse). Use the solution within two hours of mixing. Soak the blades for at least 10 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water to prevent corrosion. Protect your skin and clothing when handling bleach.

Alternative: TSP Cleaner

TSP (trisodium phosphate) works when diluted to 10% strength—again, 9 parts water to 1 part TSP. Soak blades for 3 minutes, then rinse with clean water. Avoid skin contact with undiluted TSP, and handle it carefully.

Removing Rust from Garden Shears

Rust happens, especially if shears were stored damp. White vinegar soaks work well for light to moderate rust—submerge the affected metal for a few hours, then scrub with steel wool. Baking soda paste (mix with enough water to form a thick paste) is another effective option; apply, let sit, then scrub. For heavier rust, steel wool alone with some elbow grease usually does the job. After rust removal, rinse fully and dry completely before moving on to oiling.

Deep Cleaning: Disassembly and Pivot Care

If your shears come apart, separate the two halves for better access to the pivot, spring, nut, and blade crevices. Do not force parts apart if they are not designed to disassemble—breaking a rivet or spring turns a clean tool into a broken one. Once disassembled, clean each piece, dry it, and apply a small amount of oil to the pivot and moving parts before reassembly. Wipe off any excess oil.

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Lubrication and Storage: The Rust-Proofing Finish

After cleaning and drying—whether it was a basic wash, a sanitizing soak, or a rust removal session—apply a light coat of oil to the blades and pivot point. Use a machine oil or a dedicated tool oil. Wipe off any excess; you want a thin protective film, not a drip hazard. The oil prevents moisture from sitting on bare metal and forming new rust. Store shears dry and clean, hanging or in a dry shed rather than on a damp garage floor.

Common mistakes that shorten shear life: leaving blades wet after washing, using disinfectants without prompt rinsing and drying, forcing apart shears that don’t disassemble, reassembling without cleaning the pivot area, and storing them dirty. Avoiding these five errors will keep a decent pair of shears sharp and rust-free for years.