Composting in a 5 Gallon Bucket | Three Ways That Work

Composting in a 5-gallon bucket turns kitchen scraps into rich garden soil using either a standard aerobic bin, a worm farm, or Bokashi fermentation — all in a small space for under $20.

A single 5-gallon bucket is on the small side for composting, but it is the perfect size if you live in an apartment or a small home with no yard. You can build a working system in an afternoon with a drill and about $15 in parts. The method you choose depends on how fast you want results, whether you want worms, and how much fuss you can handle. The table below lays out the three routes so you can pick the one that fits your space and your patience.

Which Bucket Composting Method Is Best For You?

The three main approaches to composting in a 5-gallon bucket are standard aerobic, vermiculture (worm farming), and Bokashi (anaerobic fermentation). Each works well, but they differ in how much maintenance they need, how fast they go, and what they can handle.

Standard Aerobic Composting: The Classic Five-Gallon Bucket Bin

This is the simplest method. Drill holes, layer in greens and browns, roll the bucket every few days, and wait. It is aerobic — meaning the microbes that break down the scraps need oxygen to work.

What You Need For This Method

• One 5-gallon HDPE bucket with a tight-fitting lid ($8–$15 from any home center)
• A power drill with a ¼-inch bit for aeration holes
• Twigs or dried leaves for a base layer
• Brown materials: dried leaves, shredded paper, cardboard, straw
• Green materials: kitchen scraps, coffee grounds, fresh grass clippings

Step-By-Step Setup

Start by drilling 10–15 holes in the lid, 15–20 holes around the sides near the top, and another 10–15 holes in the bottom. The holes in the bottom let excess moisture drain out; the side and lid holes let air in. Place a layer of twigs or dried leaves at the bottom to keep the drainage holes from clogging.

The golden rule is a 3:1 ratio of browns (carbon-rich) to greens (nitrogen-rich). If you eyeball it, aim for roughly three handfuls of browns for every one of greens. Add water until the whole mix feels like a damp, wrung-out sponge — wet enough to clump but not so wet that water pools in the bottom.

Roll or shake the bucket on the ground every two or three days to mix the contents and bring fresh oxygen into the pile. Let the bucket sit for 48 hours after each mixing before checking moisture. Keep filling and mixing until the bucket is about three-quarters full, then let it “cook” for 5–7 weeks. You will know it is done when the contents look and smell like dark, crumbly soil.

The pile should smell earthy, never rotten. If it smells like ammonia, add more browns. If it smells sour or stagnant, roll it more often to add air.

Vermiculture: Composting With Worms In A Bucket

Worm farming is the best option for people who want to compost indoors year-round without worrying about smell. The worms do the turning and aeration for you, and they produce liquid “compost tea” that is excellent for houseplants and garden beds.

Setting Up A Two-Bucket Worm Bin

Use two 5-gallon buckets. Drill 10–15 holes in the bottom of one bucket and 15–20 holes in the sides near the top. Drill 10–15 holes in the lid. Nest the drilled bucket inside the second, undrilled bucket — the bottom bucket catches the liquid that drains out. Place a square of window screen, mesh fabric, or a coir fiber disk at the bottom of the drilled bucket so the worms and bedding stay in place while the liquid drains.

Layer in brown bedding — shredded newspaper, dried leaves, or coconut coir — then add kitchen scraps. Avoid garlic and onions, which have anti-bacterial properties that can harm the worms. Introduce red wiggler worms (the only species that thrives in a bin) and close the lid.

Gently agitate the bedding every few days. Drain the compost tea from the bottom bucket every few days and dilute it with water before using it on plants. The finished compost will take several months to develop.

Worms should be active and visible in the top few inches of bedding. If they try to climb the sides or gather at the lid, the bin is too wet or too acidic — add dry browns to balance it.

Bokashi: Fermenting Scraps In An Airtight Bucket

Bokashi was developed in Japan by Dr. Teuro Higa. It is an anaerobic method, meaning you want zero airflow. Instead of decomposition by microbes, Bokashi uses a specialized inoculant to ferment the food scraps. The process happens in about a week, and the fermented matter is then mixed into soil to finish breaking down.

Drill holes only in the bottom of one bucket for drainage and nest it inside a solid second bucket. The lid must fit tightly — airtight is the goal. Each time you add kitchen scraps, sprinkle a scoop of Bokashi bran (the inoculant) on top and press down firmly with a plate or a plastic circle to block out oxygen. Close the lid.

Let the bucket sit undisturbed for about a week after it is full. Do not open it during that time. The result is a pickled, fermented mash that smells slightly sour. Mix it into garden soil and let it sit for another two weeks before planting. Unlike the other methods, Bokashi can handle meat, dairy, and cooked food scraps that would cause problems in an aerobic bin.

Common Mistakes To Avoid

Most failures in 5-gallon bucket composting come from overfilling, the wrong moisture level, or the wrong materials. Do not fill the bucket completely — air needs room to move through the pile. If the contents are too wet, add shredded paper or dry leaves. If they are too dry, sprinkle in water until the mix feels like that damp sponge. Keep garlic, onions, and large amounts of citrus out of worm bins and standard aerobic bins; Bokashi can handle them fine.

Five gallons is a small volume. It is great for kitchen scraps and for worm farming, but it will not handle bulk yard waste like large branches or whole bags of grass clippings. Stick to daily food scraps and the occasional handful of leaves, and you will get a steady supply of usable compost.

The liquid that drains from a worm bin or an aerobic bin is called compost tea. It is nutrient-rich for plants, but it may contain pathogens if the pile has not fully broken down. Use it on flower beds and ornamentals rather than directly on edible leaves.

How To Pick The Right Bucket Compost Bin For Your Needs

If you are ready to buy a purpose-built bucket bin rather than drilling one yourself, the right choice comes down to how much space you have and whether you want worms, standard composting, or Bokashi. Our tested roundup of bucket compost bins compares the top models by volume, airflow, and ease of use so you can find the one that matches your routine.