Toucan® Scarlet II Canna Lily is a tropical ornamental that pushes out bright red flowers all season, with bronze foliage that holds up through humidity and heat.
One wrong move most people make with this canna: planting it too deep. A shallow scrape, not a dug hole, is what the rhizome needs to push up fast and start blooming early. Whether you are filling a patio pot or building a tropical border, this variety rewards the simple things—sun, steady moisture, and knowing when to leave it alone.
What Is Canna Toucan Scarlet?
Toucan® Scarlet II, also sold as Toucan® Scarlet, is a hybrid canna lily (Canna × generalis ‘Scarlet’) bred by Proven Winners. It grows 30–48 inches tall with an 18–24 inch spread, producing scarlet-red flowers above coppery-bronze foliage that shifts to grayish-green with darker veins as it matures. It is grown as a tender perennial in USDA Zones 8–11 and as a showy annual everywhere else.
Why Choose This Variety Over Other Cannas?
The Toucan® Scarlet II stands out for its resistance to common canna diseases and its ability to bloom from early summer straight through the first hard frost. The bronze foliage keeps visual interest even between flower spikes, and the plant does not require deadheading — spent blooms drop naturally while new ones open above them. Penn State Trial Gardens rated it 7 out of 8 in 2018 for performance.
How To Plant Toucan Scarlet Canna For The Best Start
Planting is straightforward if you get three details right: depth, spacing, and soil. Set the rhizomes 4 inches deep with the growing tips pointing up, and space them 18–24 inches apart. Use organically rich, moist but well-drained soil. Work in compost or slow-release all-purpose fertilizer at planting time.
- Depth: 4 inches — any deeper and emergence slows significantly.
- Spacing: 18–24 inches for good air circulation and full growth.
- Soil: Rich, moist, well-draining. Standing water rots the rhizome.
- Sun: Part sun to full sun — at least 4–6 hours of direct light daily.
- Acclimation: If starting from a nursery pot, keep the plant in shade for 2–3 days before moving it to full sun. Straight from the greenhouse into full afternoon sun can scorch the leaves.
Canna Toucan Scarlet Care Through The Season
This canna is a heavy feeder and a thirsty plant once it takes off. Consistent watering and regular feeding are what separate a so-so display from one that stops neighbors mid-stride.
- Water: Keep soil consistently moist. In summer heat, water deeply 1–2 times per week. Never let the soil dry out completely.
- Fertilize: Apply a water-soluble flowering plant food every 2 weeks during the growing season. Alternatively, a liquid feed every 4 weeks works.
- Pruning: Remove spent flower spikes down to the next side shoot to encourage new spikes. Deadheading individual flowers is unnecessary.
- Tidying: Snip off seed pods if they appear to keep the plant looking clean and directing energy into blooms.
| Care Factor | What To Do | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Sunlight | 4–6+ hours direct sun | More sun = more flowers; too little shade stretches stems |
| Water | Moist, not soggy | Drought stops flowering; standing water rots roots |
| Fertilizer | Every 2 weeks (liquid) or slow-release at planting | Cannas are heavy feeders; blooms depend on steady nutrients |
| Deadheading | Not needed for blooms; remove seed pods | Blooms continuously without it |
| Pests | Deer resistant, disease resistant | Low maintenance once established |
| Overwintering | Lift rhizomes after frost in Zones 3–7 | Tender to 10°F; must be stored indoors |
Overwintering Toucan Scarlet Canna In Cold Climates
This plant is hardy down to about 10°F. In Zones 8–11 it stays in the ground year-round with a heavy layer of mulch. In colder zones the rhizomes must be lifted and stored indoors before a hard freeze hits. The process takes about 20 minutes in fall and saves you from buying new plants every spring.
- After the first frost blackens the foliage, cut stems back to 6 inches above the soil.
- Dig up the clump carefully, shake off loose soil, and rinse off the rest.
- Let the rhizomes dry in a frost-free spot for a day or two.
- Pack them in barely-damp wood vermiculite or dry compost inside a cardboard box or paper bag.
- Store in a cool, dark location around 50°F — a basement or garage works.
- Check monthly: if they feel soggy, open the bag to air out; if bone-dry, mist lightly. The RHS growing guide for cannas recommends this same method for reliable spring regrowth.
| Growing Condition | Detail | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Garden bed | Full sun, rich soil, spaced 18–24 inches | Massed tropical borders, tall backdrops |
| Container | Large pot (16+ inch), moist soil, regular feeding | Patios, balconies, moveable accent plants |
| Wet area | Margin of pond or rain garden | Boggy spots other ornamentals avoid |
| Annual (cold zone) | Treat as summer showpiece, lift in fall | Northern gardens wanting tropical flair |
Common Mistakes That Limit Blooms
Three mistakes account for most disappointing canna displays: deep planting, dry soil, and frost exposure. The rhizome needs to be shallow enough to warm up quickly in spring — 4 inches is the limit. If the soil dries out between waterings during July and August, flower production drops fast. And if the tuber is left in the ground through a hard freeze, it will not regrow. Dig before the ground freezes solid.
References & Sources
- RHS. “Canna: Growing Guide.” Official UK horticultural guidance on planting depth, winter storage, and fertilization.