Canna Scarlet | What Gardeners Actually Get

Two canna lily varieties — Toucan® Scarlet and Cannova® Bronze Scarlet — produce bronze foliage and scarlet-red flowers gardeners seek under this name.

The plant you’re picturing when you search Canna Scarlet exists — it’s just sold under two specific variety names rather than one catch-all label. Both Toucan® Scarlet Canna Lily and Cannova® Bronze Scarlet deliver the bronze-toned leaves and vivid scarlet blooms that make cannas a garden standout, but they differ in bloom timing, hardiness, and ideal use. Here’s what each offers and how to grow them for a full season of color.

Scarlet Cannas In Your Garden: Two Varieties That Deliver The Look

No plant tag reads “Canna Scarlet,” but the two closest matches are bred for the same bronze-and-scarlet effect. Toucan® Scarlet Canna Lily grows 30–48 inches tall with veined bronze foliage and red-to-scarlet flowers that bloom from planting until frost. Cannova® Bronze Scarlet reaches similar height with coppery-bronze leaves — emerging green in spring before darkening — and scarlet-red flag-like flowers that appear from midsummer to early fall.

Both are tropical-looking plants that work as annuals in cold climates and perennials where winters stay mild. The choice between them comes down to bloom season and the exact shade of bronze you want in the foliage. Toucan® Scarlet gives you color from day one; Cannova® Bronze Scarlet waits a bit but delivers a deeper bronze leaf with burgundy spine accents.

What’s The Difference Between Toucan® Scarlet And Cannova® Bronze Scarlet?

Toucan® Scarlet starts blooming right after planting and keeps going until frost, while Cannova® Bronze Scarlet waits until midsummer for its peak show. The table below lays out the specs side by side.

Both varieties need consistent moisture and well-drained soil. Neither tolerates drought or standing water. In the Deep South or desert Southwest, afternoon shade helps prevent foliage bleaching. The large leaves are also prone to wind damage, so a sheltered spot improves their appearance through the season.

Growing Requirements For Scarlet Cannas

Scarlet cannas need four things to thrive: warmth, moisture, sun, and room to spread. Plant after the last spring frost when soil temperature reaches 60°F. Lay rhizomes horizontally with the eyes facing up, 3–4 inches deep, and cover with 1–2 inches of soil.

Water sparingly until sprouts appear — heavy watering before sprouting can rot the rhizome. Once plants are up, give them 1–2 inches of water per week. Container plants may need daily watering in hot weather. A 2–4 inch layer of mulch helps hold moisture and keeps roots cool, which matters most in the heat of July and August.

Fertilize with an all-purpose slow-release formula at planting time, then switch to a water-soluble flowering plant food every two weeks through mid-season. Cannas are heavy feeders, and regular fertilizer keeps the blooms coming. Without it, flower production drops noticeably by late summer.

Both varieties tolerate urban pollution well, making them suitable for city gardens and streetside beds. Their tall, upright habit also works as a natural privacy screen along a patio or deck during the growing months.

How Do You Plant Canna Lilies For Best Results?

Follow this sequence for strong roots and maximum bloom:

1. Choose a spot with at least 4 hours of direct sun — 6–8 hours is better for Cannova® Bronze Scarlet, which needs full sun to develop its deepest bronze color.
2. Wait until soil hits 60°F — late spring or early summer in most climates. Cold soil stalls growth and can rot the rhizome before it starts.
3. Set rhizomes 3–4 inches deep with the eyes pointing up. Cover with 1–2 inches of soil. Firm the soil gently without packing it.
4. Space plants 18–24 inches apart — wider spacing for Toucan® Scarlet, slightly tighter for Cannova® Bronze Scarlet. Adequate space reduces disease pressure and gives each plant room to fill out.
5. Water lightly until sprouts emerge (up to 3 weeks), then increase to 1–2 inches per week. The soil should feel moist but never soggy.
6. Add slow-release fertilizer at planting and liquid flower food every two weeks from mid-season onward. Stop fertilizing about a month before the first frost.
7. Remove spent seed pods to keep plants tidy — deadheading the flowers themselves isn’t necessary. Leaving pods on redirects energy to seed production instead of blooms.

The Garden Design guide to growing cannas covers the full routine in more detail, including winter storage for cold-climate gardeners.

Common Mistakes That Stop Your Cannas From Thriving

The most frequent problems come from getting the basics wrong. Planting too deep — more than 2 inches of soil over the rhizome — delays sprouting by weeks and can rot the eyes. Poor drainage or standing water kills cannas faster than any pest. Skimping on sun gives you tall, leggy plants with few flowers and washed-out foliage color.

In cold zones, ignoring hardiness is the biggest mistake. Zones 7 and below need winter protection: lift tubers after frost, let them dry, and store in a cool, dark spot. Without that step, the roots freeze and the plant won’t return. In zones 8 and above, a heavy layer of mulch over the root zone is usually enough.

Overwatering before sprouting is another common error. The rhizome needs time to root without sitting in wet soil. Once green growth appears, the water needs jump, but early restraint is the difference between a strong start and a rot problem.

Final Checklist For Growing Scarlet Cannas

Whether you pick Toucan® Scarlet for its nonstop bloom from day one or Cannova® Bronze Scarlet for its coppery foliage and late-summer show, both varieties deliver the scarlet-and-bronze look that makes cannas a garden classic. Stick with the planting basics — warmth, moisture, sun, and room to grow — and they’ll reward you with color from midsummer straight through fall.