How to Install Deer Netting | Perimeter That Works

Installing deer netting requires marking a perimeter, setting posts 8–10 feet apart, running three horizontal support lines, and securing polypropylene mesh with hog rings every 3 feet while anchoring the bottom edge to the ground with 12-inch stakes every 5 feet.

A fence that actually keeps deer out comes down to the details most guides skip: how far apart the posts go, where the support lines sit, and what you use to hold the bottom edge flat against the dirt. Skip any of those, and a deer will find the gap. Here is the exact sequence that works, from the first T-post to the final ground stake.

What You Need for a Deer Fence

Poly deer netting—polypropylene mesh, typically 7 to 8 feet tall with 6-inch or 12-inch diamond openings—is the main material. A 100-foot roll costs roughly $60. For the posts, use metal T-posts (around $5 each) spaced 8–10 feet apart along straight runs, with closer spacing at corners and gates. For a standard 15-by-20-foot garden enclosure with about 70 feet of perimeter, the total material cost lands near $120.

• Support lines: high-tensile plastic monofilament wire with gripples for tensioning, plus a crimping tool and sleeves
• Fasteners: hog ring clips (buy a 2,500-pack), self-locking fence ties (6 per post), and U-shaped staples (1 ¼-inch) for wooden posts
• Bottom anchors: 12-inch kinked metal ground stakes every 5 feet
• Visibility markers: white plastic warning banners placed roughly 10 feet apart, 4 feet off the ground—keeps birds and people from walking into the mesh

For more advice on picking the right mesh size and thickness for shrubs, our tested roundup covers the best deer netting for shrubs in different garden layouts.

Step-by-Step Installation

Pre-install every corner and end post before running any line. Wooden corner posts need bracing—a single post can pull sideways under tension. Drive T-posts 8–10 feet apart for deer netting; if you ever switch to heavier wire, drop that spacing to 6 feet max.

Run the three support lines. Run monofilament lines from end to corner post. The top line sits 82–84 inches high (just above the netting height). The middle line runs at 3–4 feet off the ground. The bottom line stays at least 1 foot above the dirt. Use gripples on every run to pull the line tight and lock it. Place line-support wooden posts every 15–20 feet along straight sections.

Roll out the fence from the outside. Unroll the poly mesh on the outside of the enclosure. Face the roll inward so the mesh curves toward the posts. Attach the reinforced starting end to the first post, leaving 3–4 mesh blocks past the post for overlap. On flat ground, run stretches up to 100 feet at a time. On hilly terrain, cut the fence at a post and leave 3–8 mesh grids past it—this lets each section follow the ground without gaps.

Secure the mesh. Working from top to bottom:

• Clip the top of the fence to the upper cable with one hog ring near the first post
• Use hog rings every 1 foot along the top line, every 3 feet on the middle and bottom lines
• On wooden posts, attach the mesh squarely with 5–6 U-shaped staples
• Zip-tie the fence to each metal post using 3–4 ties per post (or 6 self-locking ties)
• Pull the bottom metal cable up and clip it 2–3 mesh grids into the fence to tension it tight to the ground

Anchor the bottom. This is the step most homeowners skip and most deer exploit. Drive 12-inch kinked ground stakes through the bottom cable and fence every 5 feet along the entire run. Add extra stakes in low spots or large divots where the fence lifts off the ground.

Tie the ends for a gate. For a walk-through gate, do not tightly zip-tie both ends of the section. Keep one end loosely tied so it can swing, and use rope on the other end for easy opening and closing.

Common Installation Mistakes

The four errors that create failures: leaving the bottom edge loose (deer push under it), spacing posts more than 10 feet apart (the mesh sags), cutting at the wrong spot instead of at a post (creates unsecured edges), and hand-tightening support lines instead of using gripples (lines loosen overnight). Each one is fixable during the install but hard to patch afterward.

A single note on safety: deer netting can trap birds and small wildlife. If that is a concern in your area, switch to welded wire or chicken wire for the bottom 2–3 feet of the fence. And when driving T-posts, use earplugs—the ringing from a post driver carries straight up the metal.