How to Install Landscape Borders | Edging Done Right

Installing landscape borders requires marking the layout, digging a trench 2–4 inches deep, adding a sand or gravel base, setting the edging material level, and securing it with stakes and backfill.

Landscape borders keep mulch in place, define garden beds, and create clean separation between lawn and planting areas. The method varies slightly depending on whether you’re using stone, brick, or plastic edging, but the core process is the same. Here’s how to do it right the first time without wasted effort.

Plan Your Border Layout

Start by laying a garden hose or rope along the intended edge to visualize curves and adjust the shape. For straight runs, use stakes with a string line stretched between them. Once satisfied, trace the outline with spray paint or marking paint so you have a clear digging guide.

Before breaking ground, call 811 to locate underground utilities — it’s free and legally required in most areas. Check your local municipality or HOA for restrictions on border types and whether permits are needed. Some neighborhoods restrict raised stone borders or require specific materials.

Dig the Trench Correctly

Dig a trench 2–3 inches deep for stone edging or 3–4 inches deep for plastic edging. Make the trench wider than the edging material — about 6 inches wide for standard stone or brick. Cut the trench wall at a 45-degree angle on the outer side to create a V-shaped edge that supports the material and prevents shifting. For plastic edging, keep the outer wall vertical for extra stability.

Small roots will block the trench; cut them cleanly with pruning shears. Save the excavated soil for backfilling later. The bottom of the trench should be relatively flat and level along the run.

Add a Stable Base and Set the Edging

Pour a 1-inch layer of sand or gravel into the trench bottom and compact it with a hand tamper. This base provides drainage and prevents the edging from settling unevenly over time. For areas with poor drainage, add extra gravel beneath stone edging to channel water away from garden beds.

Place the edging material into the trench. For stone or brick, use a carpenter’s level — a long level for straight sections and a torpedo level for curves — to check alignment. Tap each piece gently with a rubber mallet so the top sits level with or about 0.5 inches above the trench edge for drainage. For plastic edging, the strip should stand about 0.5 inches above ground; let it sit in the sun for 30 minutes first so it softens and flattens naturally.

If you’re ready to buy materials, our tested roundup of landscape border options covers the best choices for different yard types and budgets.

Secure Stakes and Backfill

Drive stakes at a 45-degree angle from the lower outside face of the edging, leaving about 2 inches exposed above ground. Space stakes every 3–4 feet for plastic edging or every 5 feet for stone kits. The angled stake holds the edging firmly against the trench wall and resists frost heave.

For plastic edging, join strip sections with a coupler slid halfway into the top channel of one strip before connecting the next. Avoid joining plastic near corners or sharp bends — position couplers in the middle of straight runs where the seam is less visible.

Backfill by packing the saved soil tightly against the outer trench wall. Tamp it down with your foot or a tamper, then fill gaps between edging and soil with mulch or additional soil. Water lightly to settle everything, and check the level again — adjust any stones or strips that shifted during backfilling.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Digging too shallow causes stones to pop up after rain or frost. Too deep requires excessive backfill that settles unevenly. Always match trench depth to your material.

Forgetting drainage direction is the most expensive mistake — water should flow away from garden beds, not into them. Add a gravel layer under stone edging in low areas. Plastic edging installed near corners without coupler placement in straight runs creates visible seams that weaken over time.

Wear gloves and safety glasses when cutting plastic with tin snips, pruning shears, or a utility knife. For PVC edging, use a hacksaw. A rubber mallet is essential for tapping material into place without cracking it.