Garden netting is a physical barrier that stops insects, birds, and small mammals from damaging your crops without using chemicals.
Setting up garden netting correctly means choosing the right mesh for the pest you’re blocking, building a support that won’t collapse, and sealing every edge so nothing crawls underneath. Here’s exactly how to do it for raised beds, in-ground plots, or row crops.
Choose the Right Netting for Your Pest
Mesh size determines what stays out. Pick the wrong one and you’ve blocked nothing useful or trapped wildlife you didn’t mean to. The table below matches the opening to the pest:
| Netting Type | Mesh Opening | Stops These Pests |
|---|---|---|
| Insect mesh | 0.6mm or smaller | Whiteflies, aphids, flea beetles |
| Bird netting | 3/4 inch | Birds on fruiting crops (berries, cherries) |
| Hardware cloth | 1/2 inch | Rabbits and burrowing mammals at bed perimeters |
| Wildlife-friendly netting | Less than 5mm | Birds and small animals (prevents trapping fingers or feet) |
| Gopher wire | 3/4 inch or less | Gophers and voles (laid beneath beds, not draped) |
For most vegetable gardens, insect mesh on hoops during early growth and wildlife-friendly bird netting during fruiting covers the full season.
Install the Support Structure First
Netting draped directly on plants crushes leaves and blocks airflow. A support frame holds the mesh off the foliage and gives you room to work.
For larger areas, bend metal rods, PVC pipes, or stiff poly-pipe into arches (hoops) and secure both ends. On raised beds, metal saddles or rebar pins driven into the bed frame hold PVC arches in place against wind.
Vining crops like cucumbers, beans, and tomatoes benefit from a trellis panel inside the hoops. The trellis supports the plant vertically while the netting covers the whole structure.
Drape, Secure, and Anchor Without Gaps
This is where most installations fail. A loose edge or a wind-lifted corner is an open door.
- Drape with slack. Unroll the netting across the hoops or stakes, leaving a few extra feet on each side for ground overlap. Leave enough slack for the plants to grow into the space — pulling netting tight tears mesh and restricts stems.
- Fasten to the supports.
- Anchor the bottom completely. Bring the netting all the way to the ground — pests will crawl under a 2-inch gap. On raised beds, sandbags or bricks on the top edge of the bed work well.
- Create an access point. Leave one side unclipped or install Velcro flaps so you can water and harvest without lifting the whole structure. Removing and reinstalling netting every other day is unsustainable — a zippered entry or removable clips pay for themselves in convenience.
Install the netting immediately after transplanting or as soon as seedlings emerge. Waiting until pests are visible means they’re already feeding. The goal is to protect the vegetative growth phase before pollination matters.
Maintenance and When to Take It Down
Check the netting weekly for tears, gaps, or debris that weighs it down. Leaves and sticks that pile up on top of insect mesh block airflow and light — brush them off with a broom or gloved hand.
Remove the netting when flowers appear. Pollinators cannot reach blossoms through insect mesh or tight bird netting. Pull the netting back completely during flowering, then replace it if fruit needs protection from birds. At the end of the season, wash the netting with water, dry it fully, and store it in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. Wet netting stored in a shed develops mold that rots the fibers over winter.
FAQs
Should I put netting over soil before planting?
Bare-soil netting makes sense only for gopher or mole exclusion — lay hardware cloth or gopher wire at the bottom of raised beds before filling with soil. For above-ground pests, install netting after seeds germinate or transplants go in, not before.
Can I use the same netting for insects and birds?
A single mesh cannot do both jobs well. Bird netting (3/4-inch openings) lets aphids and flea beetles through. Use insect mesh during early growth, then switch to bird netting or wildlife-friendly mesh during fruiting.
Does garden netting need to be removed every time it rains?
No. Most netting is water-permeable and drains naturally. Insect mesh (<0.6mm) can hold a small amount of water if debris collects on top — keep it clear by brushing off leaves and checking after heavy storms. Polyester and polyethylene netting dries quickly and does not soak through.
References & Sources
- Dalen Products. “DIY Garden Netting Installation.” Covers step-by-step installation, anchoring methods, and support materials.
- Bootstrap Farmer. “Insect Netting.” Details mesh sizes for specific insect pests and airflow considerations.
- Vego Garden. “Beginner’s Guide to Installing Gopher Net.” Covers in-ground gopher wire installation and anchoring for raised beds.