How to Make Concrete Planter Pots | DIY Molds & Pours That Last

Make concrete planter pots at home using a two-mold system, a concrete-soaked towel draped over a form, or a bowling ball pressed into wet mix—then seal them for outdoor durability.

Making your own at home only costs the price of a bag of mix and a few common household containers, and the difference in quality is entirely up to you. Whether you want sharp modern cubes, round bowl shapes, or textured garden globes, the basic process is the same: build a mold, mix the concrete to the right consistency, let it cure, and finish it so it survives the weather.

The three methods here cover the most popular approaches, from the standard two-mold planter to the creative towel-drape and ball-in-bowl techniques. Each one produces a different shape and level of difficulty, so you can pick the one that fits your next weekend project.

The Basic Two-Mold Method for a Concrete Planter

This is the go-to technique for creating planters with straight walls and a flat bottom. You use one container as the outer wall and a second smaller container to push the planting cavity into the wet concrete.

Start by sealing any drainage holes in your outer mold with FrogTape® Multi-Surface Painters Tape. Spray both the inner and outer mold surfaces generously with vegetable oil so everything releases cleanly later. Sift your concrete mix through a strainer to remove large rocks—wear a dust mask for this step. Work fast because it begins to thicken quickly.

Pour the concrete into the bottom third of the outer mold, then insert the lubricated inner mold, pressing it down until it sits about an inch from the bottom. Add more concrete around the sides if the inner mold stands too tall. Tap the whole thing gently on your work surface to release air bubbles trapped in the mix. If the inner mold floats or shifts, secure it across the top with tape running to the edges of the outer container or down to the work surface itself.

Let the planter cure for at least 24 hours—follow your concrete brand’s package instructions for exact times. After curing, remove both molds. You can then paint it or move straight to sealing.

For indoor or decorative planters, finish with a concrete cure-and-seal spray in a matte finish. If this planter will live outside with no cover, the sealer is what keeps rainwater from cracking the concrete over winter. See our tested ceramic red planter picks for a different look at the same job.

Towel-Drape Method for a Concrete Planter

The towel-drape method does not require an inner mold. Instead, you soak an ordinary cloth towel in concrete mix and wrap it around a form to create soft folded shapes with the texture of fabric frozen in stone.

Mix Quikrete or another fine concrete to a smooth, thick pudding consistency. Wet a towel first, then saturate it fully in the concrete mix, coating both sides completely. Cover the form (a flower vase, plastic bucket, or any non-porous object) with a plastic bag so the concrete does not stick to it. Drape the concrete-soaked towel over your form, adjusting the folds and pleats by hand. Let it cure for at least 24 hours, then check the package directions; the OSU Botanic Garden suggests removing the form after about a week and letting the planter cure for another full week before planting in it. Once cured, sand any sharp edges and apply a concrete weather sealer for outdoor use.

Bowl-Ball Method for Round Concrete Planters

This technique creates smooth bowl-shaped planters with a uniform depth. It is the simplest method if you want an instant round planter without measuring or cutting molds.

Spray a plastic bowl with cooking oil. Fill it halfway to three-quarters full with mixed concrete. Spray a bowling ball (or a glass votive holder for smaller bowls) with more oil, then push it into the wet concrete, twisting slightly as you go. Do not let the concrete overflow the bowl edge. Let it sit for at least 24 hours. Twist the ball out—if it sticks, tap the bowl’s sides gently. The harder you push the ball in, the deeper the bowl will be. Sand the rim before full cure for a clean edge.

Finishing and Sealing Your Concrete Planter

Concrete dries alkaline and slightly porous. A sealer is not optional for planters that stay uncovered outside—water that soaks in and freezes will crack the walls. Use a concrete cure-and-seal spray in a matte finish for a natural look. Sandstone or fine-grit sandpaper removes any drips or rough patches before the concrete hardens completely, which usually happens between 12 and 24 hours after the pour.

For color, microcement dries off-white by default. Mix in latex paint to shift the shade toward gray, or brush on a limewash or thinned paint for a weathered, aged appearance. Some builders speckle the surface with black paint for a porous stone look. If you plan to paint, do it before the sealer goes on.

Key Decisions Before You Start

Choose the fine concrete mix without rocks for smoother finishes. Microcement costs more but produces denser, more polished surfaces. Both work for the methods above. The only non-negotiable step is proper lubrication—every surface the concrete touches needs a coating of vegetable oil or cooking spray. Missing that step can lock your planter into the mold permanently.