The best tool for cutting ornamental grass depends on the grass variety — a power hedge trimmer or chainsaw handles thick, woody clumps, while sharp hand shears work fine for small or soft-stemmed grasses.
A clump of ornamental grass that looked graceful all summer turns into a spiky, stubborn mess when it’s time for the annual cutback. Grab the wrong tool and you’ll be fighting every stalk, wasting time, and maybe even hurting the plant. The right tool makes the job fast, clean, and safe — and the choice comes down to how thick the stems are. Here’s how to match the tool to the grass, plus the exact steps to cut back any ornamental grass without the headache.
Why the Tool Choice Matters
Ornamental grasses fall into two categories when it comes to cutting. Soft-stemmed varieties like blue fescue or feather reed grass slice cleanly with manual shears. But larger grasses — especially Pampas grass, maiden grass, and miscanthus — develop tough, woody centers that hand pruners simply can’t handle. Using the wrong tool also risks damaging the plant’s crown, which sits right at the base and must stay intact for next season’s growth.
A power hedge trimmer or chainsaw moves through dense, dry stems quickly without jarring your hands. For smaller clumps, the right manual tool gets the job done with less noise and zero battery management.
What’s the Best Tool for Thick Ornamental Grass?
For grasses with stems thicker than a pencil or a dense woody center — Pampas grass is the classic example — a chainsaw or a power hedge trimmer is the only practical choice. Standard string trimmers bounce off Pampas grass without cutting it, and hand shears will leave you exhausted.
A cordless reciprocating saw fitted with a 9-inch pruning blade also works, especially if you’re dividing the clump at the same time. Battery-powered tools are the safer option here because they have no hot muffler or engine spark to ignite dry leaves and grass dust.
The EGO HT2410 Power+ 56V hedge trimmer, with its 24-inch blade, is a popular pick for this job. It cuts through bundled stalks cleanly, and since it’s cordless, there’s no cord to tangle or trip over. Expect to pay around $200–$250 with a battery and charger.
When Manual Tools Are Enough
For dwarf grasses and new growth that hasn’t hardened off, a quality pair of sharp pruning shears works fine. The key word is “sharp” — dull blades crush the stems and open the plant to disease.
For slightly thicker but still manageable clumps, the ARS HS-KR1000 hedge shears are a favorite among gardeners who cut back ornamental grasses regularly. The long blades let you take clean cuts across a wide bundle. On soft stems, a Silky Pocket Saw — a Japanese-style folding hand saw — cuts fast with a pull-stroke motion and costs around $25–$35.
A surprising manual alternative that some experienced gardeners swear by: a long, high-quality bread knife. Its serrated edge cuts through dry grass stems better than most pruning shears, and the length gives you leverage on thicker bundles.
| Grass Type | Recommended Tool | Why It Works |
|---|---|---|
| Pampas grass, giant miscanthus | Chainsaw or reciprocating saw | Cuts woody, thick stems that string trimmers can’t handle |
| Maiden grass, switchgrass | Power hedge trimmer (24″ blade) | Moves fast through dense bundles without jamming |
| Feather reed grass, blue fescue | Sharp pruning shears or hedge shears | Soft stems cut cleanly; manual tools are faster and quieter |
| Any dry, dead grass near structures | Battery-powered trimmer (e.g., EGO 56V) | No hot engine parts to ignite dry material |
| Small clumps under 3′ tall | Silky Pocket Saw or bread knife | Serrated edges grab stems better than straight shears |
| Large established clumps (any variety) | Weed eater with brush blade | Brush blade chops through thick stalks quickly |
| Soft new growth only | ARS HS-KR1000 hedge shears | Long blades make wide, clean cuts without strain |
The Right Way to Cut Back Ornamental Grass
Cutting ornamental grass isn’t complicated, but skipping the preparation step creates a mess and risks the plant’s health. The process is the same whether you use power tools or hand shears.
Step 1: Bundle the Stalks Before You Cut
This is the trick that separates a clean job from a disaster. Wrap brightly colored twine, a bungee cord, or old fishing line tightly around the grass clump at about 12–18 inches above the ground. Tie two knots. For very tall grasses, a second tie at waist height keeps everything under control. You’ll cut below the twine, and the bundle stays together for easy cleanup.
Skipping this step means stalks scatter everywhere when you cut them — and dry grass blades are sharp enough to draw blood through gloves when you try to gather them afterward.
Step 2: Gear Up
Thick gloves are mandatory — ornamental grass blades are razor-edged. Add safety goggles, a long-sleeved shirt, and closed-toe shoes. If you’re using a chainsaw or reciprocating saw, hearing protection goes on too.
Step 3: Make the Cut
Cut below the twine line. With a power hedge trimmer, work in sections and keep the blade parallel to the ground. If you’re using manual hedge shears, take only a few stems at a time — trying to cut a thick bundle with hand shears strains your grip and leaves ragged cuts. Don’t cut too close to the twine or the stalks may loosen and spill.
For grasses that need to be cut to a specific height: warm-season grasses go to 3–6 inches, cool-season grasses to one-third of their height, and evergreens to half or two-thirds. A good general rule is 3 inches for grasses under 3 feet tall and 6 inches for taller varieties.
Step 4: Clean Up
Grab the bundled cuttings by the rope and drop them seed-first into your green waste bin so seeds don’t scatter across your lawn. Use pruning shears to snip any rogue stalks you missed, then rake the center of the clump to remove dead material and improve airflow to the crown.
Common Mistakes That Cost You
The biggest mistake is cutting into the plant crown — the dense growth point at the base. Slicing into it can kill the clump or leave it looking lopsided for a full season. Cutting too high, on the other hand, leaves dead stubble poking through the new spring growth.
Another issue: using hand snips on a large clump. It’ll take forever, exhaust your hands, and the cut quality will suffer. Match the tool to the grass size before you start.
If you’re ready to shop for the right equipment, our tested roundup of tools for cutting tall grass covers the top cordless trimmers, hedge trimmers, and hand tools that actually hold up to dense growth.
Cutting Heights at a Glance
| Grass Type | Cut Height | Best Time to Cut |
|---|---|---|
| Warm-season (miscanthus, switchgrass) | 3–6 inches | Late winter / early spring before new growth |
| Cool-season (fescue, feather reed) | 1/3 of total height | Early spring as new shoots appear |
| Evergreen (carex, liriope) | 1/2 to 2/3 of height | Early spring, skip fall pruning |
| Grasses 3′ or shorter | 3 inches | Late winter or early spring |
| Grasses taller than 3′ | 6 inches | Late winter or early spring |
Quick Checklist for a Clean Cutback
- Match the tool to the grass type — chainsaw for Pampas, hedge trimmer for maiden grass, shears for fescue.
- Always bundle the stalks with twine before cutting.
- Wear gloves, goggles, and long sleeves — dry grass blades are sharp.
- Cut below the twine, above the crown, at the right height for that grass type.
- Rake out dead material from the center of the clump afterward.
- Use battery-powered tools on dry grass to eliminate fire risk from hot mufflers.
FAQs
Can I use a string trimmer to cut down ornamental grass?
Standard string trimmers work on very small, soft-stemmed grasses but fail completely on thick varieties like Pampas grass. A brush blade conversion for your weed eater can handle larger clumps, but a hedge trimmer or chainsaw is more reliable for dense, woody growth.
What happens if I cut ornamental grass too short?
Cutting into the crown — the dense growth point at the base — can kill the clump or cause it to produce weak, sparse regrowth. Follow the standard height guidelines: 3–6 inches for most varieties, and never cut below the lowest green growth.
Is it better to cut ornamental grass in fall or spring?
Spring cutback is safer for most varieties. Fall pruning can remove winter interest and leave the crown exposed to cold damage. For warm-season grasses, wait until late winter or early spring just before new growth begins. Evergreen grasses are best left until spring as well.
Do I need to sharpen my shears before cutting grass?
Yes. Sharp blades make clean cuts that heal quickly, while dull blades crush the stems and create entry points for disease. File or hone your pruning shears and hedge shears before each season’s cutback to keep the grass healthy.
References & Sources
- LawnStarter. “How to Cut Back Ornamental Grasses.” Step-by-step preparation and cutting instructions including the bundle-and-cut method.
- The Home & Garden Center. “Trimming Ornamental Grasses.” Guide on tool selection, cutting heights, and safety precautions for Pampas grass.
- Tending My Garden. “Tool I Use for Ornamental Grass Cutback.” Review of the Silky Pocket Saw and ARS hedge shears for soft-stemmed grasses.
- EGO (YouTube). “Trimming Tall Grass with EGO Power+ Hedge Trimmer.” Demonstration of cordless hedge trimmer use and fire safety advantages over gas tools.
- Martha Stewart. “How to Cut Back Ornamental Grasses.” General advice on tool sharpness and disease prevention during cutback.