Cut no-dig landscape edging between anchor holes using aviation snips or a hand saw for a clean line that won’t split or misalign during installation.
One wrong cut turns a crisp border into a wavy mess that fights you at every connector. The trick isn’t strength — it’s picking the right tool and knowing exactly where to slice. Rigid plastic no-dig edging has a predictable weak spot built right in, and the tool that works for garden branches will leave you with splintered plastic and a sore hand. Here’s the setup that gets it right on the first try.
What Tool Actually Cuts No-Dig Edging?
Aviation snips (straight-cutting style), tin snips, or a hand saw work best on plastic no-dig landscape edging. Garden shears and standard scissors snap rather than slice, leaving jagged edges that fight the connector channels. If you already own a hacksaw, it handles the job cleanly with a blade meant for plastic or metal.
Where Exactly Do You Cut?
Cut the edging between two anchor holes — never directly on a hole or spike. The mounting holes are structural weak points, and slicing through one leaves a ragged half-hole that won’t accept a connector or stake properly. EasyFlex’s installation video demonstrates this clearly: position your snip or saw blade in the empty gap between holes, and the cut lands centered and square. Cutting directly on a hole also removes material the next section needs for overlap, forcing you to waste a few inches of edging to recover a clean end.
Step-by-Step: Cutting No-Dig Edging Cleanly
Clear stakes or connector pieces from the section you plan to cut. Line up your tool with the gap between two anchor holes and make one smooth slice.
- Step 1: Lay the edging flat on a stable surface — a driveway or piece of scrap plywood works. Unroll enough to reach your measured mark.
- Step 2: Mark the cut point with a piece of chalk or a grease pencil. Line it up so the cut falls between two mounting holes, not on one. If your mark lands directly on a hole, shift it one hole left or right — this keeps the structural integrity intact for the connector.
- Step 3: Open your aviation snips fully and seat the blades an inch past the marked line. Close the snips in one full squeeze — don’t nibble at the edge in small bites, which creates a wavy cut line. The blade should shear through in a single pass.
- Step 4: If using a hand saw, start with short pull strokes to seat the kerf, then switch to full-length strokes. Let the saw’s weight do the work; pushing hard generates heat that can melt the plastic edge.
- Step 5: Test-fit the cut end into a connector piece. The connector should slide about halfway into the channel without forcing. If it binds, trim a sliver off the cut edge with a utility knife.
After cutting, the success cue is a square end that fits flush into the connector channel — a crooked cut leaves an overhang that shows along the border line. If the end looks angled, snip off another quarter-inch and check again.
The Tool Comparison: Which One Wins?
| Tool | Best For | Trade-Off |
|---|---|---|
| Aviation snips (straight cut) | Thinner plastic edging up to 2.5 inches tall | Fatigues hands on long runs; finer control than a saw |
| Tin snips / metal shears | Any plastic edging; also cuts thin aluminum edging | Bulky handles; can pinch fingers at blade pivot |
| Hand saw / hacksaw | Thick composite or double-wall edging | Creates plastic dust; slower on single cuts |
| Utility knife (score-and-snap) | Very thin edging (under 1/8 inch) | High risk of slipping; needs a straightedge guide |
| Garden shears | Nothing for rigid plastic edging | Crushed, uneven cut; tool damage risk |
| Pruning shears (bypass) | Thin, flexible edging only | Not strong enough for rigid no-dig wall edging |
| Reciprocating saw | Large demolition or bulk cuts | Overkill; highest risk of melting plastic; dust hazard |
Aviation snips sit in the sweet spot for most homeowners — they leave a smooth edge, work on all standard plastic edging, and cost under $20. They’re also the tool Frame It All’s official installation guide recommends for composite no-dig edging. For thicker double-wall edging (the tall 2.5-inch style Vigoro sells), a hand saw gives you better leverage and less hand strain if you have more than a few cuts to make.
How to Avoid the Most Common Cutting Mistakes
The most frequent error is cutting on an anchor hole, which creates a weak joint that can’t accept a connector properly. The second is using the wrong tool — garden shears look like they should work but they crush the plastic channel, leaving a deformed end that won’t slide into the connector. The third is forgetting to account for connector overlap: each joint eats about an inch of edging on each side, so cut your sections an inch longer than your raw measurement to compensate.
Installation Shortcut: What to Do Right After the Cut
Once the cut is clean, slide the connector coupler halfway into the channel of the first strip. Pinch the connector and the edging together at the channel opening, then fit the second strip’s cut end over the exposed half of the coupler. The top edges should sit flush — if one sits higher than the other, the cut wasn’t square and needs a trim. Drive stakes through the anchor holes at 3 to 4-foot intervals using a rubber mallet. On curves, add a stake at the apex of each bend and space the rest closer together, about 2 feet apart, to prevent the edging from springing back or shifting. For a check on which specific edging products hold up best on curves and straight runs alike, our testing breakdown on the best 4-inch no-dig landscape edging covers real performance on different soil types and installation setups.
Common Cutting Mistakes vs. Fixes
| Mistake | What Goes Wrong | How to Fix or Avoid It |
|---|---|---|
| Using garden shears | Crushed, jagged edge; tool may bend | Switch to aviation snips or hand saw |
| Cutting on a hole or spike location | Weak joint cuts when you stake it; connector won’t fit | Always cut between two holes — shift mark if needed |
| Joining two sections at a curve | Visible seam that pulls open under tension | Join straight sections in the middle of a run; curve the edging itself |
| Skipping the shallow guide trench | Edging shifts out of alignment after rain or foot traffic | Dig a 1–2 inch trench along the marked line before laying edging |
| Using too few stakes | Edging lifts in wind or heavy rain; grass grows underneath | Stake every 3–4 ft on straight runs; every 2 ft on curves |
| Cutting at an angle instead of square | Gap at connector joint; visible overhang | Mark cut with a square or straightedge; re-snip if crooked |
FAQs
Can I use a utility knife on thick plastic edging?
A utility knife works only on thin, flexible edging (less than 1/8 inch thick). On rigid no-dig wall edging, it requires multiple passes and risks slipping off the material. Aviation snips or a hand saw are faster and safer for standard 2.5-inch tall edging.
Do I need to wear gloves when cutting plastic edging?
Yes. The cut edges of plastic landscape edging are sharp enough to leave small cuts on bare hands. Wear work gloves that give you grip on the tool handle and protect your palms from stray plastic shards. Safety glasses are also recommended when using a saw.
How much extra edging should I buy for waste and mistakes?
Plan for roughly 10 percent extra beyond your measured border length. This covers test cuts, crooked snips, and the inch of material each connector joint uses. A 60-foot roll typically provides enough slack for a 55-foot border run with straight cuts.
Can I cut no-dig edging after it’s staked into the ground?
It’s not recommended. Cutting in place risks damaging the edging behind the cut point and leaves plastic debris in your soil. Always measure, cut, and dry-fit the full border run before driving any stakes permanently into the ground.
What’s the best way to cut edging around tree roots?
If a root sits above the soil line, cut the edging at the nearest anchor hole and let it wrap over the root rather than forcing the edging down. For large surface roots, notch the bottom edge of the edging with a utility knife so it sits flush without bending upward.
References & Sources
- Frame It All. “How to Install No-Dig Edging.” Official installation guide with cutting and staking instructions.
- The Home Depot. “How to Install Plastic Edging.” Step-by-step guide from a major edging retailer.
- Vigoro. “60 ft. No-Dig Edging Tall Wall Product Page.” Current product dimensions and pricing.