Burlap for Tree Root Balls | Remove the Top Before Planting

Burlap wrapped around a tree root ball must have its top third to two-thirds cut away before planting to prevent root girdling and a wicking effect that dries out the soil.

A balled-and-burlapped tree looks ready to go in the ground, but the burlap itself becomes a problem if you plant it wrong. Modern burlap is often treated or synthetic and doesn’t rot fast enough to let roots grow outward. The fix takes two minutes with a knife and saves you from digging up a struggling tree a year from now. Here is what to do at planting time — and what not to do.

What Kind of Burlap Is On Your Tree?

Not all burlap rots the same way. Natural jute or hemp burlap breaks down quickly in the soil, especially when it’s untreated. Synthetic burlap — usually made from polypropylene — does not rot at all and will restrict root growth for the tree’s entire life. Before you plant, check the material. Pull a thread from the bottom of the wrap and hold a lighter to it. Natural fiber burns to ash; synthetic plastic melts into a hard bead.

If the burlap is synthetic, it must be removed completely before the tree goes in the ground. Even natural burlap needs the top portion cut away, because folded layers of any material decay slowly and can block roots during the critical first growing season.

Why Leaving Burlap On Is a Mistake

Leaving burlap exposed above the soil line creates a wicking effect. The fabric pulls moisture from the root ball up to the surface, where it evaporates. The tree ends up drier than if you’d planted it bare-root. Arborists call failing to remove the upper portion of burlap outright “malpractice” — the wicking alone can kill a newly transplanted tree within weeks during a dry spell.

Below ground, the risk is different. Folded layers of burlap, especially if they sit at the bottom of the hole, decay slowly enough to create a physical barrier that roots cannot penetrate during their first push outward. The tree survives its first year, then stalls. The same problem happens with wire baskets left in place — the metal persists for decades and eventually strangles the trunk base.

How To Plant a Balled-and-Burlapped Tree: Step by Step

The planting process is straightforward when you know where to cut. These steps come from Minnesota DNR and K-State Extension guidelines and work for any B&B tree larger than three feet tall.

1. Dig the hole. Make it saucer-shaped, two to three times wider than the root ball. The depth should be one to two inches shallower than the root ball height — the root flare must sit at or slightly above the surrounding grade.
2. Prepare the tree. Prune any dead or broken branches. Remove the trunk wrap, nursery tape, and tags.
3. Lower the tree in. Gently set the root ball into the hole. Rotate it so the tree’s best side faces forward.
4. Cut the wire basket. Using bolt cutters, snip and remove the top two-thirds of the wire cage. Leave the bottom third in place if the ball feels loose, but fold the wires outward so they don’t encircle the trunk.
5. Cut the burlap. Slice the burlap around the trunk at the top of the root ball. Pull the loose fabric down and away. Cut away the top half to two-thirds of the wrap entirely. If the root ball is firm and holds together, you can remove all the burlap. If the soil is crumbly, leave the bottom third to keep the ball intact — but do not bury loose folds of it.
6. Backfill one-third. Add enough of the original soil to stabilize the tree in the hole. Do not pack the soil down with your feet; water will settle it naturally.
7. Finish backfilling. Add the rest of the soil, keeping it loose. The root flare — the spot where the trunk widens and roots begin — must stay visible above the final soil line.
8. Mulch. Spread two to four inches of mulch in a ring around the tree, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. No volcano piles against the bark.
9. Water thoroughly. Give the tree 15 to 25 gallons at planting. After that, plan on 10 gallons per caliper inch of trunk each week through the first growing season.

When you see the root flare clearly above the soil line after watering, you did it right. If the flare is buried, the tree has been set too deep and needs to be lifted and replanted.

Does Natural Burlap Need To Be Removed Completely?

This is the most common question from homeowners, and the answer depends on how the root ball feels. Untreated natural burlap breaks down fast in the ground — the Garden Professors blog has demonstrated that it is rarely a major impediment to root growth when left in a single layer below grade. The risk comes from folding. A wad of burlap left at the bottom of the hole, especially if it was treated to resist rot, decays far slower and becomes a physical wall that roots cannot cross for months.

The safe rule is this: if you can remove the burlap without the root ball falling apart, take it all off. If the soil is sandy or the ball feels fragile, leave the bottom third to hold things together but cut away the top two-thirds without hesitation. That bottom layer will be below grade and covered by soil, so the wicking effect does not apply. The compromise works.

Watch Out for Wire Baskets and Synthetic Material

A wire basket holds the burlap in place during transport, but it must be dealt with at planting time. Cutting away the top two-thirds of the cage is non-negotiable for trees expected to grow large. The remaining bottom wires can stay if the root ball is loose, but they should be folded outward flat against the hole wall so they do not later encircle the growing trunk.

Synthetic burlap is a separate problem. Because it does not rot, roots will circle inside the wrap and eventually girdle the tree. Every bit of synthetic material must come off before backfilling. If the nursery cannot tell you what your tree came wrapped in, assume synthetic and remove it all.

Where To Buy Burlap for Root Balls

If you are wrapping a root ball yourself — for a tree you dug up on your property, for example — you need untreated natural burlap from a reliable source. Garden centers and nurseries carry fresh rolls during spring and fall planting months. Home Depot, Lowe’s, and Walmart stock it seasonally. Online, Amazon and eBay offer quick shipping and bulk options, though you have to confirm the material is jute or hemp. Even thrift stores occasionally turn up rolls of burlap fabric that work fine for wrapping soil — look for it in home decor aisles. If you already own the tree and simply need materials to protect it against winter damage, see our tested picks for burlap tree wraps and screens that block wind and sun scald.

Final Planting Checklist for Balled-and-Burlapped Trees

Run through these points the day you plant. Each one prevents a problem that is hard to fix later.

• Root flare sits at or slightly above grade — not buried.
• Top two-thirds of the wire basket has been cut and removed.
• Top half to two-thirds of the burlap has been cut away (or all of it, if synthetic).
• No loose fabric folds remain below ground.
• No trunk wrap, tape, or tags remain on the tree.
• Mulch ring is 2-4 inches deep and pulled away from the trunk.
• First deep watering is done within an hour of planting.