To burlap trees for winter, build a tent of stakes and burlap 12–16 inches from the foliage, keeping the top open so air circulates and the fabric never freezes to the branches.
One wrong wrap in late fall and a tree that survived a hundred summers can die over one winter. The most common mistake — pressing burlap directly against leaves — traps moisture, locks in mold, and lets the frozen fabric pull branches apart. The fix is surprisingly simple: a little distance, a few stakes, and the discipline to take it off before spring gets warm. Here is exactly how to do it so your Japanese maple, cedar, or young sapling comes through every freeze intact.
Why A Burlap Fence Beats A Direct Wrap Every Time
The biggest misconception about winter tree protection is that the burlap itself insulates. It does not. Burlap works as a windbreak and sun-scald shield, blocking the drying winter winds and preventing the sun from thawing bark during the day only to refreeze it at night. When you wrap burlap directly against the foliage, three bad things happen: the fabric freezes to the leaves and tears them, air can’t circulate and moisture builds up, and the tree suffocates under its own trapped humidity. The stakes-and-tent method solves all three.
What You Need Before The Ground Freezes
Gather the materials before the first frost locks the soil. You need a roll or squares of standard burlap — a six-foot tree typically uses about 24 square feet of material. Metal or wooden stakes tall enough to stand 12–16 inches beyond the widest point of the tree. Twine to secure the burlap, and tree wrap for the trunk if you are protecting a sapling with thin bark.
For gardeners who want a quick product comparison to match the right material to their tree size and budget, our tested roundup of burlap winter protection supplies breaks down the best options for different tree heights and regional conditions.
Step-by-Step: The Burlap Tent Method
This is the method arborists recommend for nearly every tree because it creates a protective air gap while letting light and moisture escape through the top.
Drive The Stakes
Place the stakes in a circle 12–16 inches away from the farthest-reaching branches. Drive them deep into the ground before the soil freezes — once the ground hardens, you cannot get a stake in more than an inch. If you missed that window, switch to the direct wrap method below.
Wrap The Burlap Around The Outside Of The Stakes
Staple or tie the burlap to the first stake, then walk the fabric around the perimeter, keeping it on the outside of the stake ring. Overlap the ends by several inches and secure them. The burlap should hang like a loose curtain, not a tight drum.
Leave The Top Open
Do not close the top. Snow that falls into the open center actually insulates the root zone, and the open top lets warm air escape on sunny winter days. A sealed top turns the tent into a greenhouse that cooks the tree during a thaw.
Secure With Twine
Wrap twine around the structure at the top, middle, and bottom — but tie it loosely. Tight twine cuts into branches when the wind pushes the burlap. A helpful trick from experienced gardeners: wind the twine in the opposite direction you wrapped the burlap. If the burlap goes bottom-to-top, the twine goes top-to-bottom, which pulls the wide base in snugly without crushing anything.
When The Ground Is Already Frozen: The Direct Wrap
If you missed the window and the ground is solid, a direct wrap still helps but needs more care. Start by wrapping the trunk with a vinyl or paper tree wrap from the base up to the lowest branches — do that by the end of October for new saplings. Then loosely spiral the burlap from the lowest branches upward, never compressing the tree’s natural shape. Tie it at the top, middle, and bottom with slack in the twine. The risk of trapped moisture is higher with this method, so check the wrap on warm days and peel it back if you see condensation.
| Protection Method | Best For | Key Limitation |
|---|---|---|
| Burlap tent on stakes | Japanese maples, cedars, broad-leaf evergreens | Must install before ground freezes |
| Direct burlap wrap | Saplings, trees planted late in fall | Higher moisture risk; check weekly |
| Tree wrap only (no burlap) | Mature trees with thick bark | Does not protect branches from snow weight |
| Chicken wire + straw | Rodent-prone areas, deer pressure | Bulkier; harder to remove in spring |
| Fishing line banding | Evergreens prone to snow splitting | Protects shape only, not sun scald |
| Anti-desiccant spray (Wilt Stop) | Broad-leaf evergreens in windy spots | Needs reapplication after heavy rain |
| No protection | Mature oaks, maples, pines with bark > 1 inch thick | Risky for newly planted or thin-barked trees |
Timing: When To Wrap And When To Unwrap
Wrap after the first hard freeze when the soil has firmed up but before heavy snow arrives — typically November in most northern states. Remove the burlap by mid-March or right after the last hard frost, whichever comes later. Leaving burlap on into April traps heat and moisture against the trunk, which invites fungi, insects, and root girdling. New saplings may need wrapping every winter for the first two or three years until the bark thickens; cedars usually only need protection for the first two winters.
The Mistakes That Kill Wrapped Trees
The most common error is wrapping too tightly and too close. A tree wrapped so the burlap touches every branch has zero air circulation, and the fabric acts like a wet blanket that rots the foliage underneath. A Reddit post showing a tree that looked dead after a single winter confirmed the cause: direct burlap contact combined with a sealed top. The second most frequent mistake is forgetting to remove the wrap — trees that stay covered through May often develop cankers and bark lesions that show up the following year.
Other hidden risks include piling mulch against the trunk rather than in a donut shape six inches away, which causes bark rot. And watering daily instead of giving a thorough five-gallon soak only when the soil is dry — overwatering in fall keeps roots wet as they go dormant.
Which Trees Actually Need Burlap?
Not every tree on your property needs winter wrapping. Young trees with smooth, thin bark — Japanese maples, red maples, crabapples, lindens, and honey locusts — benefit the most because their bark cannot insulate the cambium layer from rapid freeze-thaw cycles. Evergreens exposed to strong winter winds or road salt spray also need the windbreak. But mature trees with thick, corky bark like oaks, mature maples, and pines are usually fine on their own. The guideline most arborists use: if you can press your thumbnail into the bark and leave a dent, wrap it.
| Tree Type | Burlap Needed? | Priority Season |
|---|---|---|
| Japanese maple (any age) | Yes — fragile bark, sun-scald prone | First 5 winters at minimum |
| Cedar / arborvitae | Yes — prevents snow splitting | First 2 winters, then only if exposed |
| New sapling (any species) | Yes — thin bark, no cold hardiness yet | Annually until bark thickens (~3 years) |
| Mature oak | No — bark is thick enough | Never, unless storm damage is recent |
| Broad-leaf evergreen (rhododendron, holly) | Conditional — only in windy or salt-spray sites | Use anti-desiccant first; burlap as backup |
| Fruit tree (young, dwarf) | Yes — thin bark, low to snow line | Annual wrap until trunk calipers exceed 3 inches |
Final Protection Sequence: What To Do Right Now
Check your calendar. If it is November or later and the ground is not yet frozen, drive your stakes today. Attach the burlap loosely around the outside, leave the top wide open, and tie the twine in the opposite direction of the fabric wrap. Mark mid-March on your calendar. When that date arrives, pull the stakes and store the burlap for next year — your tree will reward you with full, healthy growth.
FAQs
Can I use plastic sheeting instead of burlap?
Do not use plastic. Plastic traps all moisture against the plant, creating a greenhouse effect that overheats the tree on sunny winter days and locks in condensation that rots bark and foliage. Burlap breathes, which is why it has been the standard for decades.
How high should the burlap extend above the tree?
The burlap should reach just above the tree’s tallest branches — about 6 to 12 inches of overhang is ideal. Extending it too high creates a sail that catches wind, while too short leaves the top branches exposed to sun scald and snow breakage.
Will burlap protect against deer rubbing antlers?
Burlap alone will not stop a buck from rubbing antlers. For deer damage, add a ring of chicken wire or rigid plastic tree guard around the trunk, placed outside the burlap. The burlap blocks the wind; the hardware stops the rubbing.
Should I water the tree before wrapping it?
Give the tree one thorough watering before the ground freezes if the soil is dry — about five gallons spread around the root zone. Do not water daily or when the soil is already moist. Roots need to go into winter slightly damp, not soggy, to avoid ice damage.
Can I reuse burlap from previous years?
Yes, as long as the fabric is clean and dry. Shake off soil and let it dry completely before storing. Mildew-stained burlap should be replaced, as the spores can transfer to the tree and cause disease during a warm winter spell.
References & Sources
- Independent Tree. “Winter Protection for Trees & Shrubs.” Covers the stake-and-tent method with air-gap specifics.
- Drummers Garden Center. “New Trees & Evergreen Winter Care.” Details on tree-wrap timing, anti-desiccant use, and donut mulching.
- Hansen’s Tree Service. “3 Tips for Wrapping Your Trees for the Winter.” Direct wrap instructions and removal timing guidance.
- Down 2 Earth. “To Burlap or Not to Burlap.” Fishing-line banding alternative and cedar-specific wrapping duration.
- University of Minnesota Extension. “Protecting Trees and Shrubs in Winter.” Root zone protection and the donut-mulch rule.