How to Wrap Plants in Burlap? | Step-By-Step For Winter

Wrapping plants in burlap requires a protective frame of stakes, a bottom-up overlapping spiral of fabric, and a small chimney opening at the top to prevent mold and sunscald.

One wrong cold snap can split bark on a young tree or flatten a top-heavy arborvitae. The fix is a burlap wrap, but how you do it matters more than whether you do it. Most winter damage comes not from cold itself but from temperature swings, drying winds, and sun reflection on the trunk — the same problems burlap solves when applied right. The steps below work for shrubs, young trees, and delicate ornamentals alike, whether you are prepping for a northern winter or just stopping deer from rubbing bark.

When To Wrap And What You Need

Timing is the difference between protection and mold. Wrap only after the plant is fully dormant — wait until the first hard frost has passed and the plant has dropped its leaves. Wrapping too early traps ground heat inside the fabric, creating a greenhouse effect that encourages rot.

For materials, stick to these specifics:

• Burlap fabric: 6.5 oz weight or heavier. Lightweight fabric tears in wind and holds less insulation.
• Wooden stakes: Three to four stakes, slightly taller than the plant, driven firmly into the ground before the soil freezes.
• Natural jute twine: Avoid wire ties or synthetic twine — both cut into bark when wind flaps the wrap.
• Mulch: A 4–5 inch layer of wood chips or straw around the base insulates the root zone.
• Fasteners: Staples for attaching to wooden stakes, or pinning nails for tight spots. Never use wire.

Choosing the right fabric is half the battle. If you are shopping, the roundup at top-rated burlap options for plants covers weights, sizes, and what holds up through a full freeze-thaw cycle.

How To Wrap Plants In Burlap: The Exact Steps

The correct sequence creates a water-shedding shell that breathes. Here is the order that professional landscapers and official sources from Wellco Industries and Eaton Brothers recommend.

Step 1: Mulch The Base

Spread a 4–5 inch layer of mulch in a wide ring around the plant, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. This insulates the soil and moderates root temperature through the cold months.

Step 2: Install The Stake Frame

Drive three or four wooden stakes into the ground around the plant, positioned a few inches away from the outermost foliage. The stakes should be taller than the plant itself — the burlap will wrap around them, not the plant directly. This air gap is the reason the frame matters: it stops frozen burlap from pressing against leaves and branches.

Step 3: Wrap Bottom-Up In Overlapping Layers

Start at the base and wind the burlap upward, overlapping each pass like roof shingles — the upper layer should always sit over the lower one. This shingle direction sheds rain and snow away from the plant instead of channeling water into the wrap. Keep the bottom edge slightly off the ground; if burlap touches wet soil, it wicks moisture upward and causes rot.

Step 4: Cover The Top With A Chimney Opening

Bring the burlap over the top of the plant, but do not seal it completely. Leave a small opening — about the size of a fist — at the highest point. This chimney lets trapped heat escape on sunny winter days. A sealed top creates condensation inside the wrap, which freezes and damages the plant from within.

Step 5: Secure With Jute Twine

Spiral jute twine from bottom to top, then back down, cinching just firmly enough to stop the burlap from flapping in wind. Over-tightening compresses foliage and can break branches. Use staples on wooden stakes for extra hold in exposed areas. A well-secured wrap moves as one unit in the wind rather than slapping against the plant.

Step 6: Wrap The Trunk

For young trees with thin bark, the trunk needs its own layer of burlap up to the first major branches. This prevents sunscald — the vertical crack caused when winter sun warms the trunk during the day and temperatures plunge at night. Leaving the trunk exposed while wrapping only the foliage is a common mistake known as the “lollipop” effect.

Common Mistakes That Ruin Burlap Wraps

Several errors turn a well-intentioned wrap into a liability. The table below shows what goes wrong and how to prevent each one.

Potted Plants And Special Cases

Container plants need a different approach because the root ball is exposed above ground. Wrap the pot first — run burlap around the container and secure it tightly — then insulate by adding a layer of mulch inside the wrap around the upper part of the pot. Wrap the plant portion the same way as in-ground plants, with overlapping shingles and a chimney top. Potted plants dry out faster in winter winds, so check moisture levels periodically if the plant is kept under an overhang.

For deer protection on arborvitae and evergreens, wrap in late November and remove in April. The burlap physically blocks deer from rubbing antlers on the trunk and browsing on lower branches. Keep deer repellent spray in rotation during spring and summer after the wrap comes off.

When And How To Remove Burlap In Spring

Take the wrap off as soon as the weather moderates and nighttime temperatures stay above freezing. Leaving burlap on into warm weather traps humidity and invites fungal disease. Remove the jute twine, unwrap the fabric, and fold it for reuse if it is still intact. Leave the stakes in place for a few weeks — if a late frost surprises you, the frame makes re-wrapping fast. Pull the stakes entirely once the ground has thawed and all frost danger has passed.

Final Winter Preparation Checklist

Run through this sequence before temperatures drop for good:

• Wait for the first hard frost and full dormancy.
• Apply a 4–5 inch mulch ring around the base.
• Drive three or four stakes around the plant, taller than the foliage.
• Wrap burlap bottom-up with overlapping layers.
• Cover the top while leaving a fist-sized chimney opening.
• Secure with jute twine — not wire or synthetic ties.
• Wrap the trunk separately on young trees.
• Keep the bottom edge off the soil to prevent wicking.
• Remove the burlap when frost danger ends in spring.