How to Use Burlap to Protect Plants | Winter Wraps That Work

Using burlap effectively means creating a breathable wind barrier around your plants with stakes, keeping the fabric off the foliage, and removing the wrap promptly in spring after the ground thaws.

A hard freeze can ruin a season’s work, but the right barrier stops windburn and frost damage without the mold risks of plastic sheeting. Burlap’s loose weave lets air and moisture pass while blocking the worst winter gusts. Done right, a burlap wrap gets borderline-hardy shrubs like arborvitae and young trees through months of freezing weather. Done wrong—when it touches the leaves or stays on too long in spring—it punishes plants you meant to protect. The difference is a few inches of stake spacing and a single rule about removal timing.

What Weight Of Burlap Works Best For Winter?

Garden-grade burlap weighing at least 6.5 ounces per square yard provides the right density for winter wraps. Lighter fabric degrades quickly under snow and heavy wind. Most commercial rolls sold at garden centers meet this spec, but it is worth checking the label before buying. A standard 3-foot by 24-foot roll covers about two 6-foot-tall Emerald Green Arborvitaes when wrapped loosely.

When To Wrap And When To Unwrap

Timing is the factor that separates an effective winter wrap from one that does damage. Start wrapping after the first hard frost, when the plant is fully dormant and has dropped or hardened off for winter. For most US climates that means November. The first freeze typically follows the first frost by one to two weeks, so wrapping between these two events gives the plant time to settle into dormancy before being enclosed.

Remove the burlap in spring—around April for most regions—once the ground thaws and the worst freezes are behind you. But leave the stakes in place through late spring. A cold snap after an early removal can kill new growth, and having the structure ready makes re-covering a five-minute job instead of an hour-long one.

How To Use Burlap To Protect Plants: Step By Step

The goal is a windbreak, not a straightjacket. Burlap should stand away from the foliage and let air circulate through the top.

Gather Your Materials

You will need three or four wooden stakes (cedar or pressure-treated), a roll of 6.5oz or heavier burlap, a hammer, a staple gun with galvanized staples, and natural jute twine for tying where staples cannot reach.

Build The Stake Frame

Drive the stakes into the ground three to five inches away from the plant, spacing them evenly around it. The distance between the stakes and the foliage is the air gap that prevents freeze-damage from wet fabric touching the leaves. Water the plant thoroughly before wrapping—hydrated roots survive cold better than dry ones—and apply a four- to five-inch layer of mulch around the base to insulate the soil.

Wrap And Secure

Unroll the burlap around the stakes and plant, wrapping two to three times. Extend the material about five inches below the soil line to block wind from getting underneath. Secure the burlap to each wooden stake with a staple every six inches. At the top, leave the fabric open rather than sealing it shut—trapped moisture encourages mold, and an open top lets heat escape during thaws instead of building up condensation. For extra stability, spiral jute twine from the bottom up and back down, keeping the tie snug but not tight enough to compress the branches.

What To Check After Installation

Reinspect the wrap after heavy snow or high wind. Look for spots where the burlap has sagged onto the foliage or where the twine has pulled tight enough to bend a branch. Loosen or adjust as needed. A properly maintained wrap will look nearly the same in March as it did in December.

Choosing the right material is half the job. Our roundup of the best burlap options for plant protection covers weight grades, roll sizes, and what to avoid, so you grab the right roll on the first trip.

Common Mistakes That Damage Plants

The most frequent error is wrapping too tightly. Compressing branches with burlap or twine creates a microclimate that holds moisture against the bark and invites rot. Burlap should shield, not squeeze. The second most common mistake is letting the fabric touch the foliage. When wet burlap freezes against a leaf, it can kill that branch tip and create an entry point for disease. Always maintain that three- to five-inch air gap. The third is leaving the wrap on too long in spring. Wrapping through April is usually safe, but once the ground thaws and temperatures stay above freezing, the burlap traps heat and blocks light that the plant needs to wake up. Remove it promptly.

Can Burlap Protect Plants That Are Not Cold-Hardy?

No. Burlap creates a wind barrier and moderates temperature swings, but it does not raise the temperature inside the wrap enough to save a tropical or semi-tropical plant from a hard freeze. Plants like fuchsia, lemon, and other non-hardy species will die below freezing regardless of how carefully they are wrapped. For those, the only reliable option is moving them indoors or into an unheated garage. Burlap works on plants that are borderline-hardy in your zone—it buys them a few degrees of protection and stops windburn—but it will not overwinter a plant that cannot survive your lowest winter temperatures.

Finishing The Job: The Three-Step Spring Plan

When the ground is workable and nighttime lows stay above freezing, cut the twine and pull the staples. Unfold the burlap and store it dry for next winter—it lasts several seasons if kept out of direct sun. Leave the stakes in place through late spring in case a cold snap forces a re-cover. Once the plant has pushed new growth and the threat of a hard freeze has passed, pull the stakes, prune any winter-damaged tips, and water deeply. The same burlap that protected the plant all winter is now ready to be reused for summer shading or as a weed barrier in the vegetable bed.