Yes, arborvitae can be transplanted, and success depends on moving them while dormant with a large root ball, planting in well-drained soil, then watering deeply and mulching.
Digging up an arborvitae feels like a risk, and it is. But landowners move them every year, and the difference between a plant that survives and one that browns out comes down to timing and root care. One late-summer move with the wrong root ball can kill a years-old privacy hedge overnight. This article covers when to dig, how much root to keep, and the exact steps that give a moved arborvitae the best odds of thriving in its new spot.
Is Transplanting Arborvitae Worth The Risk?
Moving an arborvitae is least risky when it has the right conditions, but the plant will always lose some roots in the process. Smaller, younger specimens bounce back far more reliably than mature specimens that have been in the ground for years. The risk climbs with size, because a larger plant needs more roots to support its foliage, and the root ball you can realistically move only captures a fraction of them. For a mature privacy hedge or specimen tree, an ISA-certified arborist can move it with equipment and know-how that changes the odds completely.
When Should You Transplant Arborvitae?
Late August through early November is the golden window in most growing zones, and early spring before new growth starts is the second-best option. Arborvitae are most resilient when dormant because their water demand drops and the shock of root loss hits a system that isn’t actively pushing new foliage.
In warmer regions like east Tennessee zone 7a, conifers can be moved from fall through the end of winter. In colder zones, early fall or early spring is safer because the ground stays workable and the plant has time to anchor before summer heat or winter winds arrive.
How To Transplant Arborvitae: Step By Step
Prepare The Plant Before You Dig
Water the arborvitae deeply two to three days before moving it. Hydrated roots hold soil better and handle the stress of being cut. This step alone reduces transplant shock noticeably.
Dig The Root Ball
Start digging at least 12 inches from the trunk for smaller plants and up to 24 inches out for larger arborvitae. Go deep enough to capture most of the root system — a sharp spade makes cleaner cuts, and cleaner cuts mean fewer torn roots. Do not strip soil from the roots or try to bare-root the plant. Mature arborvitae moved without a solid root ball rarely survive.
| Plant Size | Minimum Root Ball Radius | Root Ball Depth |
|---|---|---|
| Small (under 3 ft tall) | 12 to 14 inches | 10 to 12 inches |
| Medium (3 to 6 ft tall) | 16 to 20 inches | 14 to 16 inches |
| Large (6+ ft tall) | 20 to 24 inches | 16 to 20 inches |
| Mature hedge (8+ ft tall) | 24+ inches or arborist equipment | 18+ inches |
Prepare The New Hole First
Choose a site with full to partial sun and well-drained soil — arborvitae hates soggy roots. Dig the new hole twice as wide as the root ball and exactly the same depth. A hole that is too deep sinks the root crown below the surface, which cuts oxygen flow to the roots and invites rot.
Set The Plant At The Right Height
Position the arborvitae so the root crown sits about one inch below the soil surface. Backfill with the original soil that came out of the hole. Tamp it down gently to remove air pockets, but do not compact it tightly — roots need air gaps to spread.
Water And Mulch Immediately
Water thoroughly right after planting, then keep the soil moist but not soggy during the first growing season. A 3 to 4-inch layer of mulch spread around the base helps hold moisture and moderate soil temperature. Keep the mulch at least 2 to 3 inches away from the trunk to prevent bark rot.
The Timing Decision: Does Moving Season Affect Survival?
Yes, and the difference is noticeable. Arborvitae transplanted in fall or early spring have a significantly lower chance of yellowing or browning needles compared to those moved in summer heat. The dormant-season transplant gives the roots several weeks to settle into the new soil before the plant needs to support full foliage growth or fight winter wind.
One common failure pattern: moving an arborvitae in midsummer, when the plant is actively growing and water demand is at its peak, causes rapid needle drop because the reduced root system cannot keep up. If summer is the only option, water heavily for a week before moving and plan to shade the plant for a few days after transplanting.
What Are The Biggest Mistakes People Make?
- Too small a root ball. This is the single most common cause of transplant failure. Cutting roots too close to the trunk removes too much of the feeding network, and the canopy starves.
- Planting too deep. Burying the root crown below the surface starves the roots of oxygen. Arborvitae roots need air near the top of the soil.
- Poor drainage. Standing water around the root ball causes root rot, and arborvitae in poorly drained soil rarely recover from transplant shock.
- Skipping mulch or using too much. No mulch lets the root ball dry out; mulch piled against the trunk invites rot and insect damage.
- Adding fertilizer too soon. New transplants cannot absorb fertilizer effectively, and the salts can burn the roots. Wait until the following spring.
- Moving mature specimens alone. Large arborvitae require specialized equipment. Trying to drag a heavy root ball by hand often damages the root ball or the mover’s back.
| Mistake | Why It Fails | The Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Small root ball | Not enough roots to support the canopy | Dig wider — 12 to 24 inches from the trunk |
| Planting too deep | Root crown smothered, oxygen blocked | Set crown 1 inch below soil surface |
| Soggy soil | Root rot in standing water | Find well-drained site or raise the bed |
| Wrong season | High water demand + reduced roots = dieback | Transplant in early fall or early spring |
| Fertilizing too soon | Salts burn tender new roots | Wait until the next spring |
Aftercare That Makes The Difference
The first year after transplanting is the most fragile. Keep the soil consistently moist, especially during dry spells in the first summer. A transplanted arborvitae cannot tolerate drought stress while its root system is regrowing.
Winter burn is a real risk. Newly planted arborvitae in windy spots can lose foliage to drying winds before the roots have enough uptake capacity. A burlap windbreak or an anti-desiccant spray applied in late fall helps protect the foliage through winter. Purdue University’s Landscape Report notes many common transplant failures of arborvitae come down to these aftercare details rather than the initial move itself. Purdue Landscape Report on arborvitae transplant problems covers the most common aftercare mistakes and how to avoid them.
Transplanting Risks & Success Signals
Yellowing or browning needles in the weeks after transplanting are normal to some degree, but widespread browning that continues into the next season means the root ball was too small or the site conditions are wrong. The plant will need a full year before you can judge success by significant new growth. If the arborvitae holds its color through the first winter and pushes new green tips in spring, the transplant took.
References & Sources
- Purdue Landscape Report. “Stop Making These Arborvitae Mistakes! Common transplant problems of arborvitae” Covers common mistakes, aftercare, and winter burn in transplanted arborvitae.
- Nature Hills Nursery. “How to Transplant Arborvitae Successfully” Step-by-step transplant guidance including root ball size, timing, and watering.
- Green Giant Trees. “Why Fall is the Best Season to Plant Green Giant Arborvitae” Details on fall planting timing for Thuja varieties.
- YouTube – Garden tutorial. “How To Transplant Thuja Green Giant Arborvitae” Visual demonstration of transplanting steps for Green Giant arborvitae.