How to Build a Backyard Privacy Fence | Straight Runs & Solid Posts

A backyard privacy fence is built by setting plumb posts in concrete, attaching rails, and fastening overlapping pickets for full screening.

For the full breakdown, see our best Backyard Privacy Fence guide.

Building a 6-foot wood privacy fence is one of the most satisfying weekend projects a homeowner can take on. The process rewards careful layout and punishes haste — a wavy line or a leaning post is nearly impossible to fix later. The good news: the job breaks down into six straightforward stages that any capable DIYer can handle with basic tools.

Planning and Rules: Check Before You Dig

Before you mark a single stake, confirm what you’re allowed to build. Call your local building department about permits and setback requirements, review your HOA covenants, and have underground utilities located through the national 811 hotline. Skip this and you could be tearing out a fence on someone’s say-so. This step protects your time, money, and neighborly relations — a quick call beats a certified letter demanding removal.

Layout and Post Holes: The Straight-Line Foundation

A straight fence starts with a taut string line, not eyeballing. Drive stakes at both ends of each run and pull the string tight; that line defines the fence’s path. With the line set, mark post centers. The two common layouts are 8 feet apart for a board-and-stringer fence and 92 1/2 inches apart for a panel fence (the extra half-inch keeps panel seams clean). Mark each post center on the ground, then dig.

Dig post holes 30 inches deep or below your local frost line, whichever is deeper. Each hole should be about three times the post’s width — roughly 10 to 12 inches across for a 4×4 post. Add 6 inches of gravel to the bottom for drainage; this detail reduces moisture pooling around the base and extends its life. Set each 4×4 post in its hole, brace it plumb with stakes and a level, then fill with fast-setting concrete. Let the concrete cure fully before attaching anything.

Rails and Pickets: Building the Screen

Once the posts are set and plumb, trim the tops to a consistent height. Set the end posts to exactly 6 feet, then snap a chalk line across the post tops and cut them all to match. This one step separates a professional finish from an amateur one.

Install three rails per 6-foot section — top, middle, and bottom. Attach them with stringer brackets or screw directly through the posts; cut each rail to fit snugly between posts rather than spanning over them.

Now the pickets. A standard 8-foot section takes 15 to 17 pickets, each fastened with two galvanized nails or deck screws per rail — six fasteners per board. Space them with a 1/8-inch gap to allow for seasonal wood movement, and keep the bottom edge 2 inches above the ground to reduce moisture contact and rot. For full privacy, overlap the pickets slightly so no gaps show through.

As you work, check the string line and your level constantly. A small lean in a post becomes a very visible wave in the finished fence line.

Materials, Costs, and the Right Pick

Pressure-treated wood is the budget-friendly workhorse for posts and rails — it resists rot and insects where it meets the ground. Cedar is the classic premium picket choice, naturally rot-resistant and attractive. Vinyl and composite cost more up front but skip painting and most maintenance for decades.

Here’s what the current market looks like per linear foot installed:

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