How to Lay Brick Garden Edging | A Step‑by‑Step Border

Laying brick garden edging requires marking the border, digging a trench, compacting a base layer, setting the bricks level with a slight outward drainage slope, and filling joints to lock the edge in place.

A brick border does more than define a flower bed — it stops grass from invading, holds mulch in place, and gives the yard a crisp, finished look. Doing the work yourself costs a fraction of hiring a landscaper and takes a weekend for an average‑sized garden. The steps below follow the method that experienced DIYers and pros at This Old House and The Home Depot recommend: dry‑set brick edging on a compacted paver base, finished with polymeric sand. It stays put through freezes and heavy rain without mortar’s cure time.

Plan the Border and Figure Out How Many Bricks You Need

Start by mapping the edge’s path. A garden hose or rope shows curves naturally; stakes and string line work best for straight runs. Spray paint marks the line to dig to. Measure the total length, divide by your brick’s length (a standard paver brick is about 8 inches), then add 10% for cuts and breakage. For example, a 20‑foot bed needs roughly 33 bricks plus 3–4 spares — or 38 bricks total.

Dig the Trench and Prepare the Base

The trench depth depends on your brick height plus the base layer. For dry‑set edging, dig 3–4 inches deep — enough for a 2‑ to 3‑inch paver‑base layer and the brick itself. In softer soil, go 4–6 inches. Keep the trench about 2 inches wider than the brick on each side so you have room to work. Tamp the bottom with a hand tamper or the end of a 2×4 until it’s firm.

Pour in crushed stone or paver base (not sand alone — sand shifts over time). Spread it 2 inches thick, then compact it thoroughly. Rake it flat and check the depth with a straight board. A solid base is what keeps the bricks from tilting after a hard rain.

If you prefer to skip cutting bricks for curves, browse tested brick edging products on the market that include pre‑curved sections made for tight radius turns.

Set the Bricks with the Right Slope and Spacing

Lay the first brick at one end, tap it level with a rubber mallet, and check it with a 2‑foot level in both directions — front‑to‑back and side‑to‑side. The finished edge should tilt slightly away from the garden (about ⅛ inch per foot) so water runs off the bed, not into it. On straight runs, butt the bricks edge‑to‑edge. On curves, keep the joints tighter on the outside of the curve and slightly wider on the inside. Cut bricks where the gap gets too wide: score the line with a masonry chisel and tap firmly, or use a diamond‑blade saw for cleaner cuts.

Work in short sections (3–4 feet at a time) and re‑check the level after every third brick. Once a section is set, backfill both sides with the excavated soil or a soil/sand mix and tamp it down. This locks the bricks sideways so they don’t wander.

Fill the Joints and Finish

Sweep polymeric sand into the gaps until they’re full, then lightly mist the sand with a garden hose (follow the sand’s label — too much water washes it out). Polymeric sand hardens as it dries and keeps weeds from sprouting between bricks. For a simpler dry‑set look, use plain jointing sand and accept you’ll need to top it up every year or two. Avoid mortar‑based systems here unless you want a permanent edge that requires a deeper trench (6–8 inches) and 2–3 days of cure time before any weight touches it.

The table below summarizes the key choices and what they demand in prep and upkeep.

Common Mistakes That Make an Edge Fail

Nearly every failed DIY edge shares one of these problems:

• Base not compacted — bricks settle unevenly after a season.
• Level checked in only one direction — a brick that tilts sideways looks crooked.
• Trench too shallow — the brick sits above grade and gets knocked loose by the mower.
• No drainage slope — water pools at the border, softens the base, and floats bricks.
• Joints too wide or inconsistent on curves — the line looks wavy and gaps collect debris.