Doing it takes an afternoon and basic tools.
A crisp brick border keeps grass out of flower beds and gives any yard a finished look. The process is straightforward — mark the line, dig a shallow trench, bed the bricks in sand or gravel, and lock them together. Here is exactly how to lay one that stays put.
Marking and Planning the Brick Line
Start by laying out the border with rope, garden hose, or string line. Walk the line to confirm the curve or run matches what you want — adjust now, not after bricks are set. Ready to choose bricks? Our tested brick edging roundup for flower beds covers the best options for durability and ease of installation. Once the line looks right, transfer it to the ground with spray paint or a shallow scored line from a trowel edge — a clean guide for the trench.
Digging the Trench and Prepping the Base
Keep the trench bottom as flat as possible — a crooked base means wavy bricks. Remove all grass, roots, and loose soil, then compact the bottom with a hand tamper or shovel back. A solid, level floor is the single most important step for a long-lasting edge. Spread evenly, then compact again.
Setting the Bricks in Your Layout
Set the first brick at one trench end, pressing it into the base. Tap it level with a rubber mallet — never a regular hammer, which cracks brick. Bricks can go end-to-end for a narrow line, or side by side for a wider border easier to mow along. A simple basket-weave row works for a decorative touch. Straight runs are easier: keep a string line taut along the outer edge and check every brick against it. Most pitfalls happen when you skip level checks on bricks farther down the line, so fix any tilt or drift as you go.
Filling Joints and Backfilling for Stability
Use a stiff broom to work the material down between bricks, then lightly water with a spray nozzle to settle the fill. On the lawn side, keep soil slightly below the brick top so a mower rides over cleanly. On the bed side, fill to brick height to prevent erosion. A final light watering locks everything in.
| Step | Key Detail | Common Mistake |
|---|---|---|
| Marking | Use hose, rope, or string first | Skipping the layout test |
| Trench depth | 3–6 inches depending on brick height | Uneven bottom causes wobble |
| Base material | Paver base, gravel, or coarse sand | Loose soil instead of compacted base |
| Setting bricks | Rubber mallet, torpedo level each time | Hammer cracking the brick |
| Joint fill | Dry sand, sweep in, then water | Leaving gaps that shift later |
| Backfill | Both sides, slightly below lawn side | Backfilling before joint fill is set |
| Curing | 2–3 days for sand-cement mix | Walking on a wet mix before it hardens |
Your border is done. The most common repair is adding a little sand to joints after the first few months of settling — a five-minute fix that keeps the edge solid for years.
FAQs
How deep should I make the trench for brick edging?
Can I install brick edging without mortar?
This method is simpler and easier to repair — bricks that shift can be reset without breaking a cured bond. For high-traffic areas or steps, a sand-cement mix adds extra strength without full mortar work.
What is the best way to cut bricks for curves or corners?
References & Sources
- This Old House. “How to Edge a Garden Bed with Brick.” Covers full installation steps and common mistakes.
- Garden Gate Magazine. “How to Install Brick Edging in Your Garden.” Details layout options and joint-fill techniques.
- Home Depot. “How to Install a Brick Paver Edge.” Recommends landscape fabric, sand, and jointing sand for paver edges.