How to Get Rid of Ground Ivy | Kill Creeping Charlie For Good

Getting rid of ground ivy takes multiple applications of a triclopyr-based herbicide in the fall, or a 6-month smothering campaign with black plastic for chemical-free control.

Ground ivy—also called creeping Charlie—turns a healthy lawn into a patchy mat of scalloped leaves and purple flowers. It spreads by runners and rootlets that regenerate from any fragment left behind, which is why cutting it out by hand rarely works. One wrong tap sends the plant into hiding; the fix for ground ivy is a planned assault of the right herbicide at the right time, or a long physical blockade that starves the roots.

What Makes Ground Ivy So Hard To Kill

The plant’s waxy leaves repel water-based sprays, and any root piece or stem node left in the soil grows a new plant within days. Mowing spreads the fragments. The root system can survive for years underground, so a single treatment—chemical or otherwise—almost never finishes the job. Fall application with the right active ingredient and a surfactant is the proven route.

The Chemical Route That Works

Triclopyr is the most effective active ingredient for ground ivy, followed by 2,4-D, MCPP (mecoprop), and dicamba. You need a liquid selective postemergent broadleaf herbicide labeled for lawns, not a non-selective product that kills everything. And you need to apply it when the plant is actively growing—not during summer dormancy.

When To Spray

Fall is the clear winner. Applications in September through early November have roughly a 95% success rate compared to about 50% in spring (March–May). Spray on a sunny day with no rain in the 24-hour forecast and temperatures between 50°F and 85°F. Summer spraying is wasted effort—heat stress makes the plant less vulnerable to the chemical.

How To Apply

Mow the grass to its normal height 2–3 days before spraying. Mix the product according to the label rate and add a surfactant—ground ivy’s waxy coating needs it to absorb the herbicide. Blanket-spray the entire infested area, covering the tops and undersides of leaves plus the stems and soil around the base, rather than spot-treating individual plants. Expect to re-treat regrowth every 3–4 weeks for 2 to 3 applications.

For a detailed comparison of the most effective products tested, along with application tips for each, check our guide to the best herbicide for ground ivy.

Non-Chemical Methods That Actually Work

If you prefer to skip herbicides, physical smothering is the only reliable alternative. Mechanical pulling works only on tiny new patches of ground ivy where you can remove every rootlet by hand after rain softens the soil.

Black plastic tarp method. Cover the infested area with a black plastic tarp, weighing down the edges to block all light and water. Leave it for 4 weeks at minimum; 6 months is safer for full root starvation. This works best in hot weather. A thicker variant uses overlapping cardboard topped with 2–4 inches of compost or bark chips, left for at least six months.

Boiling water. Pour boiling water directly over the leaves and base. This kills the foliage and shallow roots instantly but does not reach deep rootlets, so expect regrowth and repeat treatments.

Borax solution. This makes the soil toxic to ground ivy but can harm surrounding plants if over-applied—use sparingly.

Common Mistakes That Waste Your Effort

• Pulling from dry soil. Roots snap, leaving the underground network intact. Always pull after rain or watering.
• Summer spraying. The plant is nearly immune during hot weather; fall timing is the difference between success and failure.
• Spot-treating instead of blanketing. Surrounding runners regrow from untreated sections.
• Expecting one application to finish it. Plan for 2–3 treatments per year, for up to 3 years on stubborn infestations.
• Skipping the surfactant. Without it, the spray beads up and rolls off the waxy leaves.