How to Install Landscape Edging | Clean Borders, Done Right

Install landscape edging by marking the border, digging a trench 3-6 inches deep, placing the edging 0.5 inches above grade, backfilling, and securing with stakes every few feet.

For the full breakdown, see our best Cedar Landscape Edging guide.

A crisp lawn edge is a cheap way to make a yard look intentional. The method depends on whether you use plastic rolls or stone pavers. Both jobs share the same goal — keep grass out of the bed and mulch off the lawn — and both fail the same way: not enough stakes, a trench too shallow, or edging buried instead of sitting above grade. Here is how to do it once.

Marking the Border and Digging the Trench

Start where the edge will be most visible. Lay a garden hose or rope along the planned line, then spray marking paint or sprinkle flour over it. For straight sections, pull the line taut; for curves, let the hose droop naturally. Add 10 percent to your total length for overlaps and waste.

Dig a trench 3-6 inches deep for most materials. For stone or paver edging, 2-3 inches is enough. The trench should be slightly wider than the edging — about 6 inches for stone. The trench wall on the lawn side should be vertical; a sloped wall lets grass roots creep under. Cut small roots with pruning shears. Dig after rain or in spring when soil is moist for easiest work.

Installing Plastic or Metal Edging

Unroll the edging in the sun for a few minutes so it relaxes.

• Cut strips: Use tin snips, pruning shears, or a utility knife angled at 45 degrees.
• Join sections: Slide a coupler halfway into the top channel of one strip, pinch it, then fit the second strip onto the coupler. Do not place a joint near a tight curve.
• Set height: The top bead must sit 0.5 inches above the finished soil line. If buried, grass jumps over; if too high, the mower hits it.
• Backfill: Pack saved soil tightly against both sides. Water lightly to settle, then add more to low spots.
• Stake it: Drive steel stakes through the edging at a 45-degree angle toward the trench wall. Space every 3-4 feet for plastic, every 5 feet for general kits, every 2 feet minimum for paver edging. Use extra stakes at every joint and inside curves. Leave stake heads 2 inches above edging initially; drive flush after checking alignment.

Cold weather makes plastic brittle. If installing in winter or a freeze-thaw climate, use extra stakes and hammer gently.

Installing Stone or Paver Edging

Stone edging needs a wider, prepared base.

Dig the trench 3-4 inches deep and 6 inches wide. Pour a 1-inch sand bed, compact smooth with a hand tamper. Lay pavers tight against each other, starting at the most visible corner. Tap each paver level with a rubber mallet and check with a level; add or remove sand underneath as needed. Fill yard-side gaps with loose soil, then pull mulch flush against the paver face.

The sand base prevents pavers from tilting after a freeze.

Common Mistakes That Ruin a Good Edge

Three errors show up in most failures. The trench is too shallow — under 2 inches lets roots push edging up. Staking is too sparse — curves and joints need extras. The trench wall is sloped instead of vertical, giving grass a ramp under the edge. Check with your HOA or municipality before starting; some restrict materials or require permits near utility lines. Wear heavy-duty gloves, keep the mower discharge chute away from the garden, and let edging sit 24 hours if stored cold.

FAQs

How deep should the trench be for plastic landscape edging?

3 to 4 inches deep, with the top bead sitting at least half an inch above the dirt. Shallower than 2 inches lets grass roots push the edging out.

How far apart should landscape edging stakes be placed?

Every 3 to 4 feet for plastic, every 5 feet for general kits, every 2 feet for paver edging. Add extra stakes at every joint and inside curves.

Can you install landscape edging in cold weather?

Yes, but plastic gets brittle; space stakes closer and hammer slowly. Spring or after rainfall is easiest for digging and safest for plastic.